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Newbie to Indian Creek

Original Post
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I've never been to the desert. (Well, I visited Arches many times as a kid).

I want to make a short excursion this weekend to mainly camp. I'll take my rack but my girlfriend is very new to climbing, so that won't be the main focus.

Any place where we would be out of the way of the real climbers and could maybe set up an easy toprope or two?

Would appreciate any beta. Coming from Denver.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

Bring extra beer, ropes, and a sign.

Note that there is nothing easier than 10- that's worth doing there

James Xu · · Moab · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 283

take her up the south six shooter. minimal rack, easy climbing, and a rad summit.

Marco GJ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I agree with Ball. Bring beer, be nice, don't be afraid to ask for advise if new to desert crack climbing. It is very difficult to set up top ropes without leading the route (you will see why once there) Bring flat shoes (not sport/gym shoes) in which you can spread your toes. Enjoy!

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

I'll second South Six Shooter, its a great climb with very cool exposure. Its a significant approach and a true trad multi-pitch though so it may or may not be what you're looking for.

There is not much under 5.10 at Indian Creek but there are a few climbs worth doing. You cannot walk to the top anywhere to setup a top rope, you must lead it first but that may be what you are asking. Here are some shorter/easier climbs that can be lead with doubles #.3 to #3 Camelot with maybe an extra #2 or #4 for some of them.

Super Crack Parking Lot:
Un-named 5.9
Warm Up
Binou's Crack This a popular climb so expect a line
Un-named
Twin Cracks This a popular climb so expect a line

Power Wall (pretty secluded):
Un-named 5.8

Optimator (shady for if its hot):
Brodie Machine

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

Having soloed south six shooter, I'd say be sure leading 5.8 if you're tall and gangly. That one move is kinda awkward.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Camp in the Creek, climb around Moab. Lots of easier climbing there.

Sam Keller · · Mallorca, ES · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Stay out of Utah Lebowski!

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Are you a nihilist, Sam Keller? :)

Yes, I can lead trad... I'm just pretty week on pure jamming. Cut my teeth on mixed jams/face... and also just kinda suck.

But we ended up in Escalante and had a blast!

I will get out to Indian Creek soon! Thanks for all the advice.

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455

If you come back bring Mtn bikes for rest days.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
Klimbien wrote:If you come back bring Mtn bikes for rest days.
I've mtbiked in the canyonlands and the riding there is sandy and generally sucks. Maybe you meant around Moab?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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