South Platte vs Clear Creek for Novice Leaders
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What are the pros/cons of each? |
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My first lead was at South Platte at the Training Grounds crag. They have like 5-6 routes that are around 5.8. It has an awesome view of pikes peak and is less crowded than most places in CCC and a ton of camping mountainproject.com/v/the-t… |
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CCC is probably a better option. It will be more like the gym. Bolted more closely. |
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Andrew Spellmeyer wrote:What are the pros/cons of each? Really just looking for some easy routes to get our sea legs on. We're climbing 5.8 in the gym but all on TR. Been to East Colfax in CCC once, but boy was it busy (on a weekend). We'd like to camp as nearby as possible as well.Definitely South Platte!!. Absolutely beautiful out there with minimal crowds, and camping all over. Hit up devils head, you can camp all along Rampart road wit plenty of good climbing to be found. |
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Dude I love the Platte and its one of my all time favorite places to climb, for sooo many reasons. But I can't think of a single area thats good for a first lead if you are only top roping 5.8 at the gym. |
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No camping in CCC. |
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My personal vote is the platte hands down. |
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I don't want seem like a dick, but if you are only toproping 8's in the gym you are still a little too green for leading. |
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I second the vote for Devils Head. Especially the Training Ground crag. Hardest route is a 5.9, and there's a route called Passing the Baton that's a closely bolted .6 or .7. I've taken a bunch of new leaders up there. Have fun! |
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Devils Head which is considered part of the South Platte may be ok, maybe. But agree with what Mike said. |
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Hah! I just remembered...the second time I led outdoors was at Jackson Creek Dome just east of Devils Head. Don't think I'll ever forget that day. I've never quite felt the same sense of accomplishment topping out since. 30 feet run-outs make you feel alive man. |
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If you're climbing TR in the gym I'd say CCC is better for first outdoor leads. Get to East Colfax early and snag a really easy route. |
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Another vote for devils head. The camping really seals the deal. Do you want to go get a beer at a brewery and go home to watch Netflix after your first lead? Or do you want to get blitzed by a campfire? |
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The weekend after this one is the annual Sympathy for the Devil weekend up at Devils Head. |
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I haven't been to S. Platte, but CCC is a pretty good spot for beginner leaders. |
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Yeah, devil's head is AWESOME -- it's the first placed I ever climbed at, indoors or out. But, I went with people who knew what they were doing. If you're only TRing 5.8 in the gym, expect to get shut down on 5.7 or lower on lead outdoors. It's probably a good idea to go with at least one rope gun who can put climbs up for you and also make sure you don't die. Check out your local Meetup groups, that's a really good way to cut your teeth on outdoor stuff and meet some new climbing buddies. |
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Mike Lane wrote:I don't want seem like a dick, but if you are only toproping 8's in the gym you are still a little too green for leading. I would suggest waiting until you can lead gym 10s first before trying the sharp end outside. Just my opinion. Main thing is learning how to be competent at cleaning the anchors and lowering. Then, several crags open up for you. Training Grounds The Jungle Urban Alpine CragNo offense taken. I guess I should have been a little more clear...I'm fairly experienced as far as lead belaying and cleaning routes, and I've lead a few things outside. When I say we climb 5.8, I mean we can onsight any 5.8 in the gym. We climb 9s and get shut down on 10s. I'm just getting back into climbing after decking about 35' in the gym 6 or so years ago. It really did a job on my confidence. So yea...we are really just looking for some confidence boosting easy climbs. |
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Mike Lane wrote:The weekend after this one is the annual Sympathy for the Devil weekend up at Devils Head.What's that? |
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I guess all these people saying you should be leading 5.10 in the gym before leading sport outside didn't go to the same school as my mentor. My first lead was a two pitch 5.7 trad climb on slippery chossy shale. When I asked if this was safe he said "you drive a car don't you? This is waaaaayyyy safer than that" I ask about if the gear will hold a fall he says "Wedge it in there real good and you could hang my truck off of it, so I think your skinny butt will be fine" Oh to be 19 again |
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Ok then Andrew, thanks for clarifying. We built the Training Grounds mostly for our kids and also to provide a crag that would 'set the hook' with neophytes to the sport. The crag is like a saddle horn protruding up from a ridge. What makes it unique from other easy route crags is that it is close to vertical, not a slab. There are very pronounced chicken heads and boiler plates for holds, like ladder rungs. So you get more of an ascent with your fingers and arms than feet like with slabs. |
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Andrew, If slab is OK, you might consider Split Rock. It was also developed for easy & save early leads. There is great camping along Jackson Creek on the drive in. Send PM if you want additional Beta. |