post injury overcoming my fear of lead climbing..help

I remember reading a great blog post by Steph Davis about fear of falling recently. Here is the address: Steph Davis: Fear for All

"If you’re very afraid of falling on lead, it can be a good idea to get a friend who is supportive, and go through a little training exercise on a likely sport route or gym route. Start by “falling” when the bolt is actually at your waist. And then after you’ve let go of the heeby jeebies a few times, go a little further ( like even 6 inches) and do it a few more times. Then go a little further, etc. Sometimes I think the body really needs to feel the sensation of falling and being caught, even if the brain knows how things are supposed to work, to really believe it. Make sure it’s a very safe, steep route, and make sure your supportive friend is also a competent belayer. Some people like to let go at the anchors, without clipping them, on long steep sport routes. It’s up to you. You might feel embarrassed or silly doing this on a route. Just go somewhere off by yourself, with a good friend, and don’t worry about it. If it results in feeling better and having more fun, it will be an hour very well spent."

Some one before talked about getting out on 3/4th class stuff, couldn't agree more,,just moving on rock again..get out of the gym ! You had your accident there and have memories of it.

Hell, lead something 4th class..get used to movement again

Sanllan wrote: I'm interested to know how did the book help you? or which part?. I ask because I think the book gets you to improve the mental game but not sure it helps to overcome a traumatic event.

Well overcoming a traumatic even is mental. I think over time it helped me to focus on climbing and not focus on the potential fall. It helped me (re)learn risk/fall assessment while climbing. For me my biggest issue was that falling and injuring myself that badly and the pain of recovery wasn't worth that climb. So every time I got on a route and saw the risk of a fall in certain spots (hitting a ledge, etc) I would try the route anyway then freak out, back off, get up set...spiral down. Through the book, I've learned to make the decision to climb or not climb. Once I decide I'm going to do a route and that I deem the risk acceptable (obviously this is a very personal decision) I am now able to focus on the climb, the moves, etc. and not focus on "what if I fall" and getting to the next gear/bolt/anchors. This is a very simplified explanation. Its a fairly philosophical book, not just about crushing your next proj'.

Get the book, read it a few times. What do you have to lose? its a few bucks and few hours of your time.

I hope you recover and stick with it. I felt like quitting a few times, but so glad I didn't. The friends you make, the places it takes you,...it's worth it!

John Strand above has it right. I got out on the 3rd Flat Iron this summer. 1st pitch was being passed by all these soloists in tennis shoes and I had a Yosemite rack on me and placed about 6 pieces. By the end of the climb confidence was up gain and moving on rock and placing 2 pieces per pitch. Climbing is a perishable skill. Now I need to get back in shape.

Edit: I tried to read Illgners book and it just did not work for me.

"perishable skill" spot on!