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All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Mt Olympus > N Summit
50 feet from the top of The Great Chimney. The main crack system was a little wet from previous rain and the rock off to the sides was kind of loose. Saw a fixed stopper. The anchors on this route were poor in my opinion. One was old webbing around a rock backed up by a rusty knife blade. I soloed up to this point but was happy to have a rope mostly for the descent off the back. I rapped off a tree just behind the summit and my 70 meter rope barely got me down. Would have been sol with a 60 on that location. The descent on the back gully also required rappelling down a waterfall and climbing down a rope ladder. Just a thought. Wanna go up there with a drill and get some good anchors in. It said you can rap the while route but I didn't see any anchor at the top. Cams up to # 2 or 3. Stoppers and TCU's. Take water and headlamp if its your first time.
ID 112186632 · · Copyright Violation?
Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus
Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)
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Lee Robinson
Sep 27, 2016
“50 feet from the top of The Great Chimney. The main crack system was a little wet from previous rain and the rock off to the sides was kind of loose. Saw a fixed stopper. The anchors on this route were poor in my opinion. One was old webbing around a rock backed up by a rusty knife blade. I soloed up to this point but was happy to have a rope mostly for the descent off the back. I rapped off a tree just behind the summit and my 70 meter rope barely got me down. Would have been sol with a 60 on that location. The descent on the back gully also required rappelling down a waterfall and climbing down a rope ladder. Just a thought. Wanna go up there with a drill and get some good anchors in. It said you can rap the while route but I didn't see any anchor at the top. Cams up to # 2 or 3. Stoppers and TCU's. Take water and headlamp if its your first time. ”  

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Route lines high on the North face of Mt. Olympus
50 feet from the top of The Great Chimney. The main crack system was a little wet from previous rain and the rock off to the sides was kind of loose. Saw a fixed stopper. The anchors on this route were poor in my opinion. One was old webbing around a rock backed up by a rusty knife blade. I soloed up to this point but was happy to have a rope mostly for the descent off the back. I rapped off a tree just behind the summit and my 70 meter rope barely got me down. Would have been sol with a 60 on that location. The descent on the back gully also required rappelling down a waterfall and climbing down a rope ladder. Just a thought. Wanna go up there with a drill and get some good anchors in. It said you can rap the while route but I didn't see any anchor at the top. Cams up to # 2 or 3. Stoppers and TCU's. Take water and headlamp if its your first time.
Closer view of Mt. Olympus from the NW (3/30/2003)
'The Great Chimney'
A rusty relic with a pice of someones cordelette tied to it so you can equalize it off of the rope around the rock wedged in the crack. I wasn't going to rap on that crap. I guess it would hold you but Im fine walking down.
Just a view looking up the crack system near the top. The bottom is pretty easy. Kind of stemming and scrambling. There was a bolted anchor about 1 or 200 feet up with blue webbing not equalized. Webbing probably needs replaced. Didn't look at it closely. A pitch above that was the really crumby anchor and then I didn't see any anchor beyond that one. Some leaver biners or rap rings would be nice. Sorry but old webbing is just sketch. The rock was really nice though and with gear and a partner the climb would be a great day. Helmet is good for potential rockfall.
North Face of Mt Olympus
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