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5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in 2 Bridge Buttress
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A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bridge At Bardo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Callback T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Easily Flakey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kerry Allen Memorial T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Layback, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mayfly, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sock Puppet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spine Tingling Bliss T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Way Back, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | John Bercaw, John McGowan 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,463 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 16, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Description
Start in the corner under the blunt prow just left of Jaws. Work the corner/crack system to its end and ready yourself for a sobering one-two punch crux section broken up by clipping the route's lone bolt. Once you've worked through the razor thin patina crux section, the climbing eases off tremendously. Get your 5.9 dance on up the arete until you reach the anchors. Look to your right and see the NRG Bridge in all its glory and bask in one of Bercaw's heady masterpieces.
From the location of the bolt (which is too far right causing rope drag issues) I believe that the FA was done by climbing the initial corner to about 10 feet and instead of following the crack up and left (which seems like the most logical way to me and best protected way as well), he stepped right and moved up the delicate slab until he was able to drill the bolt (or perhaps he pre-placed the bolt on rappel). This method would be "R" rated and although it maybe not as physically tough, it is definitely more insecure and much more dangerous.
One option, if climbing it my way, is to not clip the bolt at all and instead rely on your last piece of gear in the crack while pulling the crux moves. This is not dangerous, nor is it ridiculous.
1 Comment