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New Mexico
> Las Cruces Area…
> Organ Mountains
> Rabbit Ears Area
> Rabbit Ears Slabs
Mother's Day
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 6
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Routes in Rabbit Ears Slabs
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Barb's Roof Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bucky Blue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bucky's Shoulder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bucky's Twin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cheap Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drew's Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grandmother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Mother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murray's Warmup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Ingraham? |
| Page Views: | 753 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on May 30, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Not sure of the true name for this route (see comments below), but it goes up the middle of the bigger slab. It is identifiable by the scraggly tree at the top of the first pitch.
The first pitch starts directly under this tree, up a black streaked slab for about 30 ft to a sloping ledge covered with vegetation. (a variation would be to traverse in to this ledge from the left). Above this bushy ledge is a short corner directly beneath the tree. At the top of the corner you can exit to the left or right around a block. The left-hand exit is easier, but a little loose. Another variation is to skip the corner altogether and climb up through vegetated terrain further left, past a now replaced bolt. Belay at the tree.
Pitch two steps left off the belay ledge toward a new bolt. The crux are the thin face moves past this bolt, after which the angle eases off. A second bolt comes into view slightly to the right. Past this bolt one can follow various crack systems up to a nice belay ledge underneath a blocky headwall.
I'm guessing that one could add a 3rd or fourth pitch to this route, but we opted to rappel from the spindly tree on this ledge.
The first pitch starts directly under this tree, up a black streaked slab for about 30 ft to a sloping ledge covered with vegetation. (a variation would be to traverse in to this ledge from the left). Above this bushy ledge is a short corner directly beneath the tree. At the top of the corner you can exit to the left or right around a block. The left-hand exit is easier, but a little loose. Another variation is to skip the corner altogether and climb up through vegetated terrain further left, past a now replaced bolt. Belay at the tree.
Pitch two steps left off the belay ledge toward a new bolt. The crux are the thin face moves past this bolt, after which the angle eases off. A second bolt comes into view slightly to the right. Past this bolt one can follow various crack systems up to a nice belay ledge underneath a blocky headwall.
I'm guessing that one could add a 3rd or fourth pitch to this route, but we opted to rappel from the spindly tree on this ledge.
Location
The route is left of Bucky Blue underneath a gnarly tree. A 60 m rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch will barely reach the ground. Unfortunately, a single 60m rope rappel does not quite reach the top of the first pitch. Another option for descent is to traverse east along the large ledge system at the top of the 2nd pitch, and then scramble down the gully at the left side of the slab.
On the topo, this is route A-2 in blue.
On the topo, this is route A-2 in blue.
5 Comments