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Best routes on Cannon that are not WG, MG or Lakeview?

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236
Marc801 wrote: Technically I think it still does, but everything above the top of the Duet Buttress is miserable lose choss.
Love loose choss... puts hairs on your chest
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
USBRIT wrote: Love loose choss... puts hairs on your chest
An unfortunate sole pulled a lose block onto himself* on Sam's Swan Song many decades ago. The block crushed/amputated both of his legs on the spot. He bled out within 10 minutes.
That's excitement we can all do without!

  • : he had just placed a piton under it - that was enough to free the block from the choss.
Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
Marc801 wrote: Perhaps you meant <=5.5 ?
Yup...fixed it. Thanks.
Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236
Marc801 wrote: An unfortunate sole pulled a lose block onto himself* on Sam's Swan Song many decades ago. The block crushed/amputated both of his legs on the spot. He bled out within 10 minutes. That's excitement we can all do without! *: he had just placed a piton under it - that was enough to free the block from the choss.
... Yes in the 70's I took two bodies off this route ... Still its not really the crags fault ... A climber should be able to handle all types of rock and situations if he strays onto trad routes.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Or learn how to run away.

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310
Brian wrote: Well like much of Cannon it is not Rumney. The run-outs are on <=5.5 terrain.
I dont understand the comparison to Rumney... different animal altogether.

I would climb Cannon over Rumney any day (haven't been to Rumney in 2 seasons)

Regarding Consolation Prize. The pins are very very old, the top of the crack pitch (2) is on a leeper that has seen many a better day and the crux pitch has a slag of iron pounded inverted to the overlap - dont bet me wrong the crack is $$$ and the movement on the crux pitch is thoughtful and engaging, the pin factor certainly makes it less fun.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
D-Roc wrote:Regarding Consolation Prize. The pins are very very old, the top of the crack pitch (2) is on a leeper that has seen many a better day and the crux pitch has a slag of iron pounded inverted to the overlap - dont bet me wrong the crack is $$$ and the movement on the crux pitch is thoughtful and engaging, the pin factor certainly makes it less fun.
I did Consolation Prize once circa 1984 and the pins were terrifying even then.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

One of the worst routes on Cannon Slabs..

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
john strand wrote:One of the worst routes on Cannon Slabs..
Okay John you've peaked my curiosity what is "the best" route (IYHO) on the Cannon Slabs?
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Cirrus,, with the direct start.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
john strand wrote:Cirrus,, with the direct start.
You're comparing a 511b to a 5.8 albeit there was no limiting criteria for best. Doesn't Cirrus finish on the "worst climb" on the Cannon slabs (Consolation Prize) or are you saying that a one pitch route is the best on the slabs? I think you are in a small group who would vote this single pitch climb the best but each to their own best.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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