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Paul Ross
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Sep 20, 2016
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Keswick, Cumbria
· Joined Apr 2001
· Points: 22,236
Marc801 wrote: Technically I think it still does, but everything above the top of the Duet Buttress is miserable lose choss. Love loose choss... puts hairs on your chest
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Marc801 C
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Sep 20, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
USBRIT wrote: Love loose choss... puts hairs on your chest An unfortunate sole pulled a lose block onto himself* on Sam's Swan Song many decades ago. The block crushed/amputated both of his legs on the spot. He bled out within 10 minutes. That's excitement we can all do without! - : he had just placed a piton under it - that was enough to free the block from the choss.
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Brian
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Sep 20, 2016
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North Kingstown, RI
· Joined Sep 2001
· Points: 804
Marc801 wrote: Perhaps you meant <=5.5 ? Yup...fixed it. Thanks.
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Paul Ross
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Sep 21, 2016
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Keswick, Cumbria
· Joined Apr 2001
· Points: 22,236
Marc801 wrote: An unfortunate sole pulled a lose block onto himself* on Sam's Swan Song many decades ago. The block crushed/amputated both of his legs on the spot. He bled out within 10 minutes. That's excitement we can all do without! *: he had just placed a piton under it - that was enough to free the block from the choss. ... Yes in the 70's I took two bodies off this route ... Still its not really the crags fault ... A climber should be able to handle all types of rock and situations if he strays onto trad routes.
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john strand
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Sep 21, 2016
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Or learn how to run away.
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Caz Drach
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Sep 21, 2016
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C'Wood, UT
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 310
Brian wrote: Well like much of Cannon it is not Rumney. The run-outs are on <=5.5 terrain. I dont understand the comparison to Rumney... different animal altogether. I would climb Cannon over Rumney any day (haven't been to Rumney in 2 seasons) Regarding Consolation Prize. The pins are very very old, the top of the crack pitch (2) is on a leeper that has seen many a better day and the crux pitch has a slag of iron pounded inverted to the overlap - dont bet me wrong the crack is $$$ and the movement on the crux pitch is thoughtful and engaging, the pin factor certainly makes it less fun.
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Marc801 C
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Sep 21, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
D-Roc wrote:Regarding Consolation Prize. The pins are very very old, the top of the crack pitch (2) is on a leeper that has seen many a better day and the crux pitch has a slag of iron pounded inverted to the overlap - dont bet me wrong the crack is $$$ and the movement on the crux pitch is thoughtful and engaging, the pin factor certainly makes it less fun. I did Consolation Prize once circa 1984 and the pins were terrifying even then.
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john strand
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Sep 21, 2016
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
One of the worst routes on Cannon Slabs..
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Brian
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Sep 21, 2016
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North Kingstown, RI
· Joined Sep 2001
· Points: 804
john strand wrote:One of the worst routes on Cannon Slabs.. Okay John you've peaked my curiosity what is "the best" route (IYHO) on the Cannon Slabs?
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john strand
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Sep 21, 2016
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Cirrus,, with the direct start.
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Brian
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Sep 21, 2016
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North Kingstown, RI
· Joined Sep 2001
· Points: 804
john strand wrote:Cirrus,, with the direct start. You're comparing a 511b to a 5.8 albeit there was no limiting criteria for best. Doesn't Cirrus finish on the "worst climb" on the Cannon slabs (Consolation Prize) or are you saying that a one pitch route is the best on the slabs? I think you are in a small group who would vote this single pitch climb the best but each to their own best.
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