Training with a finger pulley/flexor tendon issue
|
I've been dealing with some pain in my right ring finger for the past few weeks. I've gone back and forth with my own opinion on what it might be. Pretty sure it's either: A2 pulley or flexor tendon strain. Sounds Similar to This |
|
I have the same question.... I am in week 4 with a left ring. Please help us MP!!! |
|
Realizing that I am not a professional, I can relay info to you based on my A4 pulley sprain and FDP and FDS strain (I did see a therapist for this injury): |
|
One thing to try (Not sure where I read/saw this) is put a wide piece of tape around your middle or second knuckle not real tight, 2-3 wraps. It will keep you from bending that knuckle more than about 45-60 degrees. (first knuckle is at the palm, second is middle of your finger, 3rd is at the tip) Start the wrap at your first knuckle and go up to between the 2nd and 3rd knuckle. 3rd knuckle is left bare. |
|
Do you know how you sustained the injury? I have torn a pulley, strained a finger flexor (local to the finger/hand), and strained a flexor in my forearm (pain refers to the palm). |
|
Charlie S wrote:Realizing that I am not a professional, I can relay info to you based on my A4 pulley sprain .... Hope that helps. Heal up quick!Charlie's advice is pretty good and more or less communicates the rehab parameters that you will get from anyone who has successfully dealt with tendon injuries. Honestly this is a pretty simple fix if you have not completely torn the pulley (even if you have, you more or less treat it the same way, but it just takes longer). What I outline below is more or less what partners and I figured out on our own through years of trying various remedies, some of which worked better than others, and some that didn't work at all. Interestingly, our conclusion more or less matched exactly what the Anderson brothers describe in their recent book on training. Thus if you want a more detailed description beyond what I write below, then get their book...on second thought, just get their book anyway because its got tons of useful insights beyond training to climb hard. The problem with going to see a doctor or other such hand "specialists" is that they will likely have zero experience dealing with the types of trauma and recovery that are inherent in hard climbing. That is where the Anderson brothers book shines: sport specific information from two guys armed with real data, real life experience, and education on the subject. Get their book here: fixedpin.com/collections/tr… Keep in mind that what I write is a very simplified view of how to fix this. The issue with tendons is that they have very little blood flow, which makes healing an issue. Thus in general, simply not using the hand will not fix the problem (at least not in a reasonable time period.) You essentially need to aggravate the tendon to stimulate blood flow and healing, but not so much aggravation that you make it worse. In general you want to continue to climb, but at a very reduced level of load. This varies depending on the person. I will use myself and a recent injury as an example. When I am healthy, I train and climb somewhere in the 5.13 range. When I recently injured my A2 I dialed back my training to easy 5.11 for a few weeks to a month. I then incrementally raised the limit until I was maybe doing one 11+ per night. And then I started adding an easy 5.12 a night etc etc. The key here is that you want minor soreness in your hand, but no actual pain. If you have actual pain, you pushed too hard. Try digging gently into your pulley at the end of the workout. Is it slightly tender? If so, then great. If lightly digging causes you to wince, you need to dial back your workout. I generally do some taping during this phase just to crutch the pulley, but some might argue against this. After a month or two, I was pain free and climbing hard again. Depending on the person and the injury, the time scale of rehab and intensity of rehab may vary, but only you can figure this out by feel. My regimen is pretty simple, but it always works. If you want something more intense, the Anderson bros book goes through hangboard routines etc., but the principle is the same. For the record, I have never completely torn a pulley, so perhaps if that happens you do need some initial "no climbing" recovery time...I believe that the Anderson book covers this scenario too. Hope this helps. |
|
While it doesn't affect the rehab protocol for an injury to a pulley, pulleys are not tendons. They are ligaments that support the flexor tendons of the fingers. |
|
Thanks for the replies everyone. I was finally able to get in to see a specialist about the injury this afternoon. For reference, I saw Dr. Herndon at MGH in Boston.
Okay..so back to the visit today with the specialist. He pretty much ruled out a flexor tendon problem. That's good news! A surprise to me, he thinks my main injury is an A1 pulley injury! He thinks there is some damage to the A2, but that's secondary. We talked a lot about the time frame for recovery and he said the next step was an MRI if I really wanted to find out what was wrong for certain. However, he didn't think it was necessary in my case. I agreed, once he confirmed that the MRI wouldn't change the recommendation of how recover. Rest. No shocker there. He thinks I'm okay to continue getting back into climbing as long as there's no pain. He doesn't think it's worth it to train other things (forearm, etc.) if there is pain. He did say that consulting other climbers who have had the injury is definitely worth doing. I'll do some more research on A1 pulley injuries myself since it's a bit different than what I was thinking all along. If anyone has some past experience with it, please let me know! Cheers, John |