Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathe… > E Buttress (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0)

Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

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Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

Route Overlay East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.

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4.9 from 7 votes

Steph Abegg

Sep 13, 2016

“Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.”

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Nearby Photos

Sept 2017 rockfall on El Cap from Middle Cathedral

Quinn Miller on the 10th pitch.

Great views.

Stainless steel bends but is hard to break! Replaced bent second bolt on "50 Crowded variation" on right; unbent replacement hanger on left.
<br>
The bent bolt / hanger was probably hit by a rock.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

Route Overlay East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

In the Original Route's chimney. People on the now standard variation could hear us moaning and yelling obscenities for the hour or so it took us to get up this thing

The first rappel on a very long descent

A 17 year old TrundleBum following one of the upper "flared groove" pitches, Middle Cathedral, East Buttress.<br>
(what is this? action, personal or I guess it could even be 'Historic')

Middle Cathedral approach trails - East Buttress, Kor-Beck, Central Pillar of Frenzy
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original photo from xRez.com

Start of the East Face rappel route.

Lead climber from a party ahead of us free climbing the 10c section.

Topo of the new rap route on EBMC

David belaying with the sun rising in the background.

The view from the belay ledge below the bolt ladder/crux pitch.

Eric-3rd 5.9 awk pitch from the 'Critical Path' alternate start. The whole thing was covered in moss but was pre-tyy sweet. the 10c thin pitch was filled with moss. but 1st pitch was sick consult the sloan guide and look at the east buttress topo for info

Brendan about to lead ladder pitch

Randy with awesome exposure on one of the final pitches

Gokul, crux pitch

View from the top, from the first few steps on the catwalk before going up the 4th class gully.

Gary Reno near the summit!

Looking down pitch 2 if I remember correctly.

east butt mid cathedral

What the experience actually looks like: three parties sharing a belay baking in the sun.

Looking up from the big ledge at the start of the route.

One of the last pitches

that's me on the east buttress circa 1985

Jesse

Always great exposure throughout the climb with great views

Descent conditions as of April 08

Looking down pitch 1.

Having Fun on East Buttress

Drew on the route.

Gokul, p4

Looking down at the 5th pitch variation going straight up over the roof. I didn't go left to the bolt ladder. Ooops. Scary.

Bolt ladder

San Luis Obispo based climber pulling the crux, 50 Crowded variation 5/7/2016

Chuck on one of the rappels on the descent.

Descent gully. A few rappels are involved.

The top of the route.

Pitch 10. Steep groove.

Pitch 7: Fun 5.7 corner climbing.

The start of the descent gully.

Pitch 4: More 5.7 fun.

Gokul, tired but in the home stretch

P10 (our P7). Head left shortly after you reach the small tree above to get to new rap route.

east buttress of middle cathedral

Just before the crux section

View of El Cap from the base of the first pitch. Worth the stroll up even if you're not doing the climb.

Pitch 6 is a face traverse into the crack systems. Protection is sparse but there are a couple of pitons and medium cam (green, yellow, and red aliens) placements.

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