Help Devils lake trad climbers

I dig guys we have top roped the horse never thought about it but was easy enough to prolly lead

But also looking for something a little taller and stright forward up as in tears of the climb also something slight less "ledgey" if you in case of falls

Lost Face.

I'll get on it next time we go up maybe next weekend and let you boys know how it goes! Once again thanks

Thanks for the great info here folks!

I like the list of first-time single leads you've put together, but do you have any recommendations for crags? What areas have high-quality trad leads up to the 5.10 range for a relatively new trad leader? Putting together a last minute trip here for the first time this weekend and trying to figure out where we should go!

East Rampart on the East Bluff has easy access and the highest concentration of classic climbs in the park. For that reason, it's also the most popular/crowded, but you can usually get on something, especially if you can climb those grades (be forewarned: Devil's Lake grades are old school trad and stiff even by those standards, so if that's your sport grade and you're a new trad leader, I would recommend going down at least 3-4 grades to start).

cengelke wrote:Thanks for the great info here folks! I like the list of first-time single leads you've put together, but do you have any recommendations for crags? What areas have high-quality trad leads up to the 5.10 range for a relatively new trad leader? Putting together a last minute trip here for the first time this weekend and trying to figure out where we should go!

Be careful onsighting DL routes, especially in the harder grades. Even the "PG" stuff often takes finicky and creative gear. I would say, unless you regularly onsight solo 5.10, you should stay off the hard stuff as a "relatively new trad leader". Or, at a minimum take a headpointing stance.

I admit I had crap gear in mid to late 70's when I started leading at the lake. Old school frame of mind that still whispers in my ear, "the leader shall not fall'..especially on manky trad gear of old. But still think it's a great learning experience to start out on low end of ratings. 1) toprope the route enough times and know the moves, holds and rest spots. 2) Nest, I'd lower down the route with my rack and preplace my gear, lots of it!,,,in best positions; yak test them even to be sure they hold, all while safely on toprope. Then go to bottom and do a 'sport' lead on it. Even have a toprope back up on you if you really doubt your efforts. 3) clean out same gear, rack it up, finally lead route again with same gear in same slots. 4) feel pretty good about your progress and dont' worry about ratings or what critics want to say. It's your life on the rope, and it's your learning curve that you are dealing with, not theirs. Have fun, stay safe.

Thanks guys we are heading there this weekend if the weather holds, I'll let you know what we attempt and how we went about it thanks for the suggestions