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Sheep Reaction
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 35
votes
Routes in Sidewalk Buttress
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If Dreams Were Thunder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sheep Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shhhhh Eeep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,902 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Sep 19, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This route has a similar profile to Smith's famed Chain Reaction, but this route is way juggy and about twice as long. Holy Moly is this a long route!
A bunch of super fun climbing leads up the steepness to a crux at about 90 feet: the crux isn't a 5.12 move (probably 11) but by the time you hit the crux, the pump is deep in your veins!
Why not 4 stars? One, the whole buttress is a bit crumbly compared to the routes up at Mondo Beyondo. And two, the final 35 feet just aren't as good as the first 90 feet. Finally, if you have been paying attention to the math, you can't do this route with a single 70M rope - it is too long. So you either have to trail a rope or if you fail to do that you will have to do a messy leaver biner rappel OR potentially a funky double rap/lower using the midpoint anchors on the route to the left. Acck!
All this needs to jump to a 4 star route is an anchor just after the crux, say at about 95 feet, and a little traffic to clean things up. Any civic-minded bolters out there, this would be a great service! Make sure you add the anchors AFTER the crux (just under the little roof would be good) and it won't change the grade at all.
This a really fun line!
A bunch of super fun climbing leads up the steepness to a crux at about 90 feet: the crux isn't a 5.12 move (probably 11) but by the time you hit the crux, the pump is deep in your veins!
Why not 4 stars? One, the whole buttress is a bit crumbly compared to the routes up at Mondo Beyondo. And two, the final 35 feet just aren't as good as the first 90 feet. Finally, if you have been paying attention to the math, you can't do this route with a single 70M rope - it is too long. So you either have to trail a rope or if you fail to do that you will have to do a messy leaver biner rappel OR potentially a funky double rap/lower using the midpoint anchors on the route to the left. Acck!
All this needs to jump to a 4 star route is an anchor just after the crux, say at about 95 feet, and a little traffic to clean things up. Any civic-minded bolters out there, this would be a great service! Make sure you add the anchors AFTER the crux (just under the little roof would be good) and it won't change the grade at all.
This a really fun line!
8 Comments