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King's Hand Right
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in King's Hand
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Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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King's Hand Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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King's Hand Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Konichiwa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Moonglue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sic Fun Ramp T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Teabag T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tony Valdes, Paul Frank, Bob Milton, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,923 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Greg D on Mar 11, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
King's Hand Right is the same as the King's Hand Left except for the second and third pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.8). Climb straight up the middle of the formation for 150 feet. There is a pin about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There are some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout.
Pitch 2 (5.10a) Climb up and right past a good pin. There is a bomber nut just above it. Move into the left of the two dihedrals and onto the anchors. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now.
Pitch 3. Head out left past a few pins and behind the formation.
Pitch 4. Climb chimney and cracks behind the formation until behind the fingers.
Rappel in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes.
Runout (8), sanding and heady. The most adventure you'll have on Wall Street.
Pitch 1 (5.8). Climb straight up the middle of the formation for 150 feet. There is a pin about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There are some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout.
Pitch 2 (5.10a) Climb up and right past a good pin. There is a bomber nut just above it. Move into the left of the two dihedrals and onto the anchors. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now.
Pitch 3. Head out left past a few pins and behind the formation.
Pitch 4. Climb chimney and cracks behind the formation until behind the fingers.
Rappel in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes.
Runout (8), sanding and heady. The most adventure you'll have on Wall Street.
Location
The King's Hand is directly above the Jaycee Campground on Potash Road approximately 3.9 miles south of Hwy 191. Park at the campground and walk south through the camp sites and find the easiest way onto the bench above the campground, then north to the base of the formation which looks more like a foot with a large middle toe (or middle penis).
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