Type: Trad, Alpine, 720 ft (218 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gordon Lindamood and Jose Joven, 1976
Page Views: 1,714 total · 19/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Sep 10, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


15 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This unaesthetic route is NOT recommended as a quick approach to the East Ridge of Wolf's Head. It is more difficult than the South Gully (mostly class 3-4) between Pingora and Tiger Tower, just to the right of this route.

Pitch 1 (5.4): Climb 185' up the gully to a big, comfortable ledge on climber's left of the gully. Mostly class 4 with a few easy class 5 moves.

Pitch 2 (5.5): Continue 185' up the gully and belay below a series of steep flakes. Mostly class 2-4 with several short and easy class 5 sections.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Climb 100' up the left side of steep flakes (moderate class 5) and continue up easier terrain (class 2-4) to the ridge just above the notch between Pingora and Tiger Tower.

Pitch 4 (5.0): Simulclimb or free solo 250' to the summit. Mostly class 3-4 with a few easy class 5 moves.

Descent to valley south of Wolf's Head: Downclimb class 4 (or 5?) gully between Pingora and Tiger Tower.

Descent to East Ridge of Wolf's Head: Downclimb 30' of exposed class 4 and rappel twice (both only 25') off natural anchors. Climb a short 5.0 section and continue 250' of class 4 along the ridge to the saddle between Tiger Tower and Wolf's Head.

Location Suggest change

This route ascends the gully that starts climber's left (west) of the gully between Pingora and Tiger Tower.

Protection Suggest change

A set of cams unless you feel comfortable free soloing exposed 5.6.

Photos

loading