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the pin on Steort's Ridge

Original Post
sclair · · SLC, Ut · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 30

Before this turns into a thing (please don't let this be a big thing), I just want to say that I am only curious, I have only lived here for 3 years, and the topic of the incident on top of outside corner does not belong here (but I thought bolts on top of that route were a bit weird).

The first time I climbed Steort's Ridge, there was a pin at the first belay. And a block that I still sling, though I'm never really sure if it won't just topple over if I really give a good, she-ra worthy pull. The point is, I got up to the belay on 9/8/2016 and my friend pointed out the pin had been chopped (? is that a thing?). I'm just curious why. I don't know how long it has been there, but it was definitely there to my knowledge for almost 3 solid years. If it was bad, my assumption is that it could have just been pulled out?

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

How do you know that it didn't just fall out naturally or was pulled out by hand because it was loose? What exactly do you mean by chopped?

sclair · · SLC, Ut · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 30

because the stem of the pin was in the crack, and there was a clean, but rusted over, break where the loop/head of the pin was.

I don't know how long metal takes to rust, which is embarrassing for an aspiring chemist to say, but I would guess I haven't been up to that ledge in about 10 months.

I've also pulledon and tried to wiggle out that pin. seemed solid to me. I know people have rapped off of it.

Ken H · · Granite, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 3,926

Well the page say:
By Seth Reelitz
From: Utah
Aug 3, 2016

CONDITION REPORT Piton on the first belay ledge has snapped off, hopefully it wasn't being used for an anchor when that occurred.

I'd guess either someone tried to clean it or loaded it wrong and it broke off. An outward pull cross loading an old piton would likely sheer it off. Probably the bigger question is whether it is original and should be replaced. Been a long time since I've been on that route but my hunch would be no it is not original and thus no it does not need to be replace. I'm pretty sure these belays soak up modern gear so there is no need.

sclair · · SLC, Ut · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 30
Ken H wrote:Well the page say: By Seth Reelitz From: Utah Aug 3, 2016 CONDITION REPORT Piton on the first belay ledge has snapped off, hopefully it wasn't being used for an anchor when that occurred. I'd guess either someone tried to clean it or loaded it wrong and it broke off. An outward pull cross loading an old piton would likely sheer it off. Probably the bigger question is whether it is original and should be replaced. Been a long time since I've been on that route but my hunch would be no it is not original and thus no it does not need to be replace. I'm pretty sure these belays soak up modern gear so there is no need.
Wow, I checked the page and I guess didn't scroll to the top for start of comments, so I missed this. Thanks!
Seth Reelitz · · Utah · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 156

Ken,
I am not sure on when it was placed but it doesn't seem necessary for the belay, as you mentioned the belays do soak up gear nicely. As I mentioned in the condition report, it looked like it was loaded with a horizontal force, either from trying to knock it out or from being shock loaded. Lots of safe options for bomber gear :) Happy climbing!

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

If the exposed end had already rusted over, I wouldn't be surprised if it rusted all the way through which is why it finally snapped off.

CTB · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 305

The weekend of the OR show the break looked like it was still fresh, with no rust at all. I would say it had happened within the last week.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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