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Accident report - indian creek

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520
grog m wrote:Thank you for all the input and regards MP community! It was a very difficult decision for me to make and I decided to have the digit amputated.
Hi Grog, I think you made the right decision. I had mine amputated 5 years ago and I was back to climbing 5.13 in 6 months. It's pretty amazing how well the body can adapt! I sent you a PM with some tips for rehab. Feel free to call (number in email) or send me a message through this site anytime. Good luck with the recovery and have fun (I mean it) relearning how long your finger is! I remember missing the volume knob on my stereo for months haha!

Cheers,

Dave
Andres T · · Chugiak, AK · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

Maybe TC will see this and set up a training or meet up with you...he wouldn't want a young aspiring climber to lose motivation or commitment to the sport over losing part of a finger!

Heal fast!

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

It would be a dream come true to meet the Tommy Caldwell!!

Daryl Allan · · Sierra Vista, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,040

Good luck with the recovery Grog. Hope you get back on the stone real soon.

Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30
grog m wrote:Thank you for all the input and regards MP community! It was a very difficult decision for me to make and I decided to have the digit amputated.
Hey Grog, that is a gnarly injury. To add some support to your decision, I had a co-worker slice off a similar chunk of his middle finger a few years ago. He optioned to have them salvage the tip and they fused the bone together. He spent a year suffering from intense pain, at least one snapping of the fused bone, and incredibly sensitivity to hot and cold due to nerve damage. He eventually went into surgery and had the tip of his finger removed. He's been pain free (though sometimes he gets "ghost itches" in the tip) ever since. I think you made a sounds decision. Good luck on the recovery.
kck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 85

That route used to be on my todo list. No more. Never. Even if I get the psych to try it I'll always remember that someone's finger was left in the crux pin scar, and that thought alone makes my knees weak. I'm kind of squeamish. You have such a positive attitude though. Thanks for sharing and heal fast!

Kev V · · The mitten · Joined May 2013 · Points: 10

Another optimistic viewpoint

Select which finger you jam wisely

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

It is mind-boggling to me that this injury could even happen. Those jams are flaring, in soft stone, and aren't even knuckle-deep. Best wishes in your recovery.

Dustin Stotser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 371

Very sorry to hear, Grog. I hope you have a swift recovery.

Scott Baird · · Hagerstown, MD · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 110

It'll buff out.

One hand sam

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
Kev V wrote:Another optimistic viewpoint
Select which finger you jam wisely
The scary thing is I've done everything up to and including #4....

Josh Janes wrote:It is mind-boggling to me that this injury could even happen. Those jams are flaring, in soft stone, and aren't even knuckle-deep. Best wishes in your recovery.
According the comments on the climb on this site some sections of crack flare inwards. An inwards flare especially combined with a downwards taper is a recipe for slicing digits.

There have been product recalls for furniture items that have done exactly this.
Wendy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 5

Please let the person who climbs the route next post a TR...would love to read about the experience of discovering a finger in the crack. Gnarly!

Glad you're ok, what a crazy story.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Wendy Laakmann wrote:Please let the person who climbs the route next post a TR...would love to read about the experience of discovering a finger in the crack. Gnarly! Glad you're ok, what a crazy story.
Meh, finding a finger tip is nothing. I know of few people who found the whole body.

Grog - good luck with the recovery, drink some grog!! Just remember finger locks or pinewood box!!
Jay Anderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 15

Condolences on your fingers. Have you thought about moving up to offwidth?

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
Jay Anderson wrote:Condolences on your fingers. Have you thought about moving up to offwidth?
Offwidth climbing has its own issues....

vimeo.com/13831211
Luke Mehall · · Durango, Colorado · Joined May 2009 · Points: 2,508

Grog - wishing you a healthy recovery buddy! Won't ever forget this story! The very first time I was in the creek I watched a guy free solo up "Fingers" and bailed onto my rope like 50 up it. This one adds to the lore, I'm sure you'll come back at 110%.

Peace.

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

Dannng. wtf? Two more guys and all 4 of u could go out and disguise as the ninja turtles for halloween.

You didn't hit the ground ? or a hold in the wall right?. Lets hope the video clears it out, this is knowledge for all climbers.

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

Gnarly.

Sanllan wrote:You didn't hit the ground ? or a hold in the wall right?. Lets hope the video clears it out, this is knowledge for all climbers.
This is a adequately known risk and while a video might help it doesn't sound like there is much doubt about the cause. Many people have lost digits (or more) in similar circumstances ropes, chains, cables etc. I had one guy lose a digit on a worksite from a loaded chain.

I wish I could say that I never have grabbed the rope during a fall but I believe I do it sometimes....
Plums · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 15

Holy shit this thread...

Good vibes and best wishes on recovery to both of you.

I will probably think of this thread and the images/descriptions therein for several years. I hope to never think of it while on lead.

The fact that the finger is still in the FiaLS pin scar is so fucking western.

Whoever retrieves it better think of something magnificent to do with it. Not to make light of OP's injury, but this is a tale that should become deep Moab-area lore.

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Plums wrote:H...Whoever retrieves it better think of something magnificent to do with it...
A NECKLACE
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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