Pie in the Sky

Pie in the Sky: something that is pleasant to contemplate but is very unlikely to be realized.

Here's the deal.

Have you ever tried to climb a giant cracker?

Because that's what pitch one is like. It's horribly dirty and it will spew sand into your eyes and blocks onto you and your belayer's head.

Unfortunately, this atrocity guards a gorgeous dihedral up top. Which has fantastic movement, good rock, great exposure, and could be a 5 star climb.

Pitch one: 5.9(R/X) 35 meters, 2 bolt anchor under large roof.

Start on the slanted weakness next to the tree. Climb the tree about 10 ft and get on the wall. Climb awful choss trending right to cracks. Pray to god you get there. The first 35ft or so has maybe 3 pieces of protection that wont hold you anyway. Once you are in the cracks the gear gets better and you can hand jam. 

Pitch 2, 5.11, 50 meters, 2 bolt anchor at summit.

The Money Pitch, It's really good! Clip a bolt 6 feet upright from the anchor. Layback and Stem up a tips corner.

From here the route is 30 meters of 4-6+ inch offwidth dihedral. Inside the gaping hole, you can place smaller cams and find occasion handholds. Run it out a bit. Up to here its about 5.10.

The 5.11 starts when you bust out the exposed roof crack which takes a #5 camalot, into the overhung dihedral you can stem and eventually chimney.

Pull the lip, top out.

Rap the route. 2 ropes required.

Climbed onsight, ground up, and never again.