The First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador. ¡Ole!

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > W Face > El Matador (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b)

The First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador. ¡Ole!

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look ma, no hands...

First jug after 130' of your legs melting...ahh

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4.5 from 21 votes

Erik Hanschen

Sep 3, 2016

“The First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador. ¡Ole!”

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Nearby Photos

Long Exposure with LEDs. The color changes at the top of each pitch

The classic shot from the boulder field...

Bill Geist seconding the classic and amazing second pitch of "El Matador."

Josh leads El Mat for the first time.

Greg Schaffer stems El Matador, at the age of 63, Climbing with Guide John Walker of Devils Tower Lodge!! Greg DID NOT rap after this pitch, but pursued the climb all the way to the Tower Top !!

On the First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador, a matador prepares for the crux pitch.

at 5'0'' it is possible to stem. possible, but brutal.

look ma, no hands...

The First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador. ¡Ole!

First jug after 130' of your legs melting...ahh

As he follows the second pitch, the Matador prepares to fight ze bull!

Having conquered ze bull, the matadors celebrate the First Matador Ascent (FMA) of El Matador.

Christian climbing the first pitch of El Matador 5-10d

Aaron covington following up El Matador! unless you have legs of steel, get a rest however you can!

El Matador route

El Matador 5.10d Beta

THE pitch

Rob finishing the 2nd pitch.

Cool shot up the stem box. taken by my cousin

Stem, palm, push, jam, repeat...

Rocking it old school

Ray thinks he's a starfish

Half way up pitch 2

Stem for your life!

Jenny & I on EL Matador!<br>
<br>
Photo: Torsten Lyon, torstenlyon.com

First go at this AMAZING LINE

chossy, bird crap laden chimney on P5-6

Several displays of technique..

Nearing top of P2. Anthony belaying

I'm 5 foot tall and wasn't able to use the stem position expect for a few seconds of rest here and there. Did my best to bridge my way up - but definitely had to use the crack for the majority of it. Incredible climb and hope to do it again!!

Jenny & I at the first Belay.<br>
<br>
PC: Torsten Lyon

Rob leading the first pitch.

STEM

Looking up from P1 belay ledge.

Jim & Pat came all the way from the East Coast just to stem the Matador !!! They got what they came for and MORE!!!

Billy Mac leading the first pitch

P2 El mat on a nice October morning

Unknown climber nearing the top of P2. I took the picture as I was rappelling the route.

Fingers and stemming, embrace the sufferfest!

chimney lichen up close and personal

At a slide show a non climber asked me if this was a man made structure.

An unknown climber on the second pitch of El Matador.

Artley starting up P2

Entering the 10a crux of the 4th pitch around the right side of the roof. Photo by Adam Sinner

Colin Simon and David Alexander atop Pitch 1.

Artley starting up P3

Paul Jacobson following midway on pitch one.

Looking up El Matador from the bottom.

Artley about to finish P1

Artley cruising the P2 fingerlocks

P2 stem action

my pitch, Eldo style roof action

An unknown climber nearing the end of the stemming pitch. (That's me rapping off of McCarthy West Face).

summit grassland(?!)

Cletus and Andrés on P2 (crux)

Following up pitch 2

Logan R. leading pitch 2.

Hard to miss this beautiful stem box

Feel the burn in your calves

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