Fixed Anchors .... without chains

Kauait wrote: I'm more concerned of the glue to rock connection/strength. (Considering weather variables, expansion and contraction wet dry.)Then the strength of the bolt. Help? Anyone?

An expansion bolt generally grips only a small portion of the bolt hole. A glue in adheres along the entire length.

Remember expansion bolts and glue used for bolting have come from engineering applications. There properties are well known and tested. Rock strength is more variable but glue is going to be better due to a larger area of adhesion.

Having the American Triangle effect on a bolted anchor with bolts that should hold as much or more tensile force than your rope, harness, quick draws, or belay device is irrelevant. I can see how, in very soft rock, the moving back and forth of the anchor pieces would erode the rock leading to anchor compromise eventually, but in solid rock that won't ever happen. The single point failure "trad anchor" with two independent bolts leading to a single rap ring that also takes all of the wear from dirty, sandy ropes is a design flaw and should never be used. The top anchor should be two completely independent pieces that provide REDUNDANCY, not additional load carrying capability. Also, the single Fixe rings are the worst rope snarling anchors and should be avoided too as they never orient perpendicularly to the rock and twist the rope as it runs through them. My 2c.