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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North
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Black Hand, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,726 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Jul 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A nice adventure route at a forgiving grade, Route 66 is a quality line that ascends solid rock using jams, finger locks, stemming, and face climbing.
Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.
Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the Two Bits anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap Stretch Marks or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.
Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.
Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the Two Bits anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap Stretch Marks or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.
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