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All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Deep Lake Area > Haystack Mountain > Central Corner (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
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Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun and sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing.
The entrance to the chimney system on the final pitch (Pitch 5). It is possible to access the chimney by climbing this corner/face or by going up a ramp to the left.
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Steph Abegg
Sep 1, 2016
“There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.”  

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Nearby Photos

The route annotated on how we climbing it.
At the base of the awesome corner. There was a party ahead of us (John and Karl from Casper, WY). The crux of the route is just above the climber (Karl) in the photo; this a short power layback section getting over the roof. There is a good belay stance about 30 feet above the roof.
going down the Grassy Goat Trail
Route Overlay Central Corner
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
Looking up Pitch 4, an arching right-facing corner. This grassy area is the best belay spot and the one alluded to in most route descriptions. We had belayed about 20 feet too early.
Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun and sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing.
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
The entrance to the chimney system on the final pitch (Pitch 5). It is possible to access the chimney by climbing this corner/face or by going up a ramp to the left.
After finishing this section you end up on a huge ledge and have one more long pitch to the top.
Looking down from the belay after finishing the roof pitch in the dihedral on Central Corner. Beautiful clean rock that protects well.
Start of the harder climbing - superb rock!
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