Easier Mountain Routes
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I am here looking for advice on bigger mountain/alpine style routes of easier technical climbing. Some of the routes ive done that model what I am looking for include pigeon spire in the bugaboos (5.4), solo flight on lone eagle peak CO. Pinnacle Peak in the Tatoosh range. |
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What about the NE Buttress of Goode Mountain, the longest continuous rock climb in the Cascades*? 800m of 5.5 (or easier) blocky schist! I did it with a doubled twin, and though we did end up pitching some parts out I don't think it was really necessary.
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Todd Anderson wrote:What about the NE Buttress of Goode Mountain, the longest continuous rock climb in the Cascades*? 800m of 5.5 (or easier) blocky schist! I did it with a doubled twin, and though we did end up pitching some parts out I don't think it was really necessary. mountainproject.com/v/north… It is a 14-mile hike in and a 21-mile hike out, though. It has been done in a day, if you're into the whole speedwalking thing. Or, if you want something with comparatively chill access (and in the Rockies), there's always the West Slabs of Mount Olympus. 500m of juggy 5.5 quartzite (I think). Not really big mountain ambiance, if that's what you're going for. Crux is picking the correct descent gully. *according to a guy I talked to on the routeGoode is just the kind of climbing im looking for. dont mind the longer approaches, as I enjoy backpacking too. added to the list. THANKS. |
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Mt Goode is worth checking out. It's the tallest mountain in North Cascades National Park and you can't see any roads from the top. Plus everyone should visit Stehekin because it is awesome. If you are looking for moderate alpine remoteness Bonanza Peak fits the bill with Bushwacking, Glaciers and long (3-600m?) rock routes from 4th to 5.9. |
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E Ridge of Wolf's Head and N Ridge of Ellingwood come to mind in the Winds. Depending on how easy you want the technical climbing to be, there's a lot of stuff for you in the Winds. |
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East ridge of Mt Temple in Banff NP is not to be missed |
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Snow & ice or rock only? |
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Kyle Tarry wrote:Snow & ice or rock only? "Easy technical climbs on mountains" encompasses a lot of stuff. Mountains/routes that don't qualify might be a shorter list. Here a short sampling of Portland-centric PNW options (assuming moderate ice/snow is also on the table): -Unicorn Peak, Tatoosh -Lane Peak, Tatoosh -Hood, Leuthold Couloir -Hood, Cooper Spur -Adams, North Ridge -Middle Sister, SE ridge -Thielsen -Mt. Washington (Oregon) -Three Fingered Jack -Colchuck Peak -Mt. Stuart (W. Ridge?) -Ingalls -Forbidden -Sahale -Shuksan If you're willing to do long approaches, climb mid-5th terrain, and moderate snow/ice, there aren't a lot of mountains that you can't climb. This will be a really long list...Thanks everyone for all the responses. Kyle, I know im not being picky enough to make a complete list. I guess my goal was to have posters read my description and be reminded of some specific peaks they climbed and thoroughly enjoyed of a similar variety. I was originally using the route finder, but as you mentioned, there are just too many routes that fall into the category I mentioned. Being from Minnesota, the travel to these places is fairly extensive. And having a 6 mo at home means I only get a couple trips a year for awhile. Therefore I am looking for those places that stick with you for a lifetime, like the Bugaboos will for me. Thanks again! |
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The California High Sierras have a number of great routes like that . (and often reliable weather). And more people out doing them and reporting on them.
. . . .many areas have fun easy on-trail running approaches).
A favorite modern "trail-runners who can handle difficulty" route is the Tenaya - Matthes - Cathedral link-up. While for non-runners the more traditional Cathedral Range Traverse has a higher proportion of fun climbing and easier logistics. An "emerging" USA region is Las Vegas and SW Utah, with two substantial print guidebooks for "easier mountain routes" (also might want to consider "canyon" routes). Red Rocks is not just for Trad and Sport climbing. In Zion N.P. while Angels Landing is the not-to-be-misses Euro-style 3rd class route, a highly-regarded low-5th class nearby is Lady Mountain. Ken |
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If I might suggest one iconic USA "destination travel" route, try the
Ken |