Differences in rope diameter
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im in my second year climbing and my first trad leading. I have a 9.8mm 60m mammut rope that has been chopped down to 56m after some sheath damage. I am in the market for a new 70m trad rope and have been handling as many ropes as possible in person while comparing specs. |
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In my opinion/experience you don't need or want a 70m rope if you climb primarily at the Gunks. Most pitches are short and rope drag is an issue on many of the routes if you do them in one pitch. Yes you can tie a 9.5 and 9.8 together with an EDK. |
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Try not to think of the diameter in terms of what you could measure with a ruler. That .3mm difference is quite significant. It's usually enough of a difference that you can instantly tell the difference between the two. |
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So many variations on ropes of varying thicknesses. Along with feel you'll also want to look at sheath/rope percentages and number rated falls to determine the right rope for you. I really like Blue Water and Petzl ropes for good "feel". Maxim ropes still have a pretty good feel, but the sheath seems to be a little more durable, which I like for zig zagging granite routes and sandstone. |
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This link has been posted in the past and has great information. stephdavis.co/blog/straight… |
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Brian wrote:In my opinion/experience you don't need or want a 70m rope if you climb primarily at the Gunks.see now in my opinion, in my 20 days in the gunks this year, my alternate partners 70m has been awesome helpful there are a handful of 35m rap stations that allow us to get down on a single, and like i said, tying two 70s can get us down from the GT in most places in one rap. maybe its the easier climbs I'm doing compared to yours? I'm usually west of High E with the other sub-5.10 climbers:) care to be a little more descriptive in why you like a 60 there? |
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Ryan Hamilton wrote:So many variations on ropes of varying thicknesses. Along with feel you'll also want to look at sheath/rope percentages and number rated falls to determine the right rope for you. I really like Blue Water and Petzl ropes for good "feel". Maxim ropes still have a pretty good feel, but the sheath seems to be a little more durable, which I like for zig zagging granite routes and sandstone.my alternate partner has a new Blue Water lightning 9.8 and that thing handles smooooth. I was actually trying to decide whether to go with that or the Contact when I stumbled into the 9.5 Arial and got to thinking.... |
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The g/m is definitely the way to think about it. While ropes may have a different feel in the hand, the actual diameter of the rope is governed by standards that the UIAA subjects the manufacturer (5.3.2. of EN 892:2004 is the relevant diameter standard). |
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Nick Drake wrote: Definitely focus on the sheath percentage and weight more than the diameter spec (which really seems to vary between manufacturers). .can you help me interpret sheath percentage specs? not sure what to look for on the spec sheet or what a good/better range would be. |
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The sehath percentage spec is going to tell you more about the rope's durability than the diameter will. Of course a 9.1 with a high sheath spec is not going to last longer than a 11mm with a lower sheath spec, but if the diameters are close the sheath spec will tell you a lot. |
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JRZane wrote: can you help me interpret sheath percentage specs? not sure what to look for on the spec sheet or what a good/better range would be.45% - 29%. I've never seen a rope fall outside that range, so that's roughly the min and max. If you get something close to 40%, it should be durable. |
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20 kN wrote: If you get something close to 40%, it should be durable.That's my thought also, but the steeper you are climbing (where the rope is just running over biners and not dragging on the rock) the thinner sheath you can go with. That's assuming you're leading and not setting a TR where the rope drags over rock. |
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How much sheath percentage really depends on the roughness of the rock and the style of climbing. I probably do about equal amounts of TRing and leading and I just retired my main lead line to TR duty because it was getting to be too stiff. She was kinda frayed and fuzzy in some spots but it was the core that got worn out faster than the sheath. If you're TRing on some really abrasive rock, on the other hand, you'll want a higher sheath percentage than if you're taking repeated whips on an overhanging sport route on limestone. |
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The 9.7mm-10mm range are good all-around, durable ropes. Some wear better than others. I have a 9.7mm and it's my "work horse." 10mm is REALLY tough to feed through belay devices once they get fuzzy or stiff. |
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One advantage of thinner ropes that is often overlooked is that they feed through some belay devices easier and allow a smoother belay. I prefer giving and receiving belays with my 9.5 compared to the 9.8s that most of my partners use. I very much dislike 10.1 and higher, as it seems like it ups your chances of getting short-roped quite a bit. |
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appreciate the input. The Petzl Arial 9.5 is 40% sheath (more than most), 8.8kn (more than most) 32% elongation (same as most), 58g/m (way lighter than most), and seems to be soft and handle well. it is NOT bi-pattern but is bright ass orange with a black mark. MSRP $260 with their sale, a coupon I have plus rewards points, its $175. |
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JRZane wrote:appreciate the input. The Petzl Arial 9.5 is 40% sheath (more than most), 8.8kn (more than most) 32% elongation (same as most), 58g/m (way lighter than most), and seems to be soft and handle well. it is NOT bi-pattern but is bright ass orange with a black mark. MSRP $260 with their sale, a coupon I have plus rewards points, its $175. I know many have mentioned the wear and tear issue with a thinner rope, but this one will be used exclusively for multi pitch trad lines. Ive got an older rope that'll be my TR'er.It sounds like a good rope for what you need. I'd say go for it. |