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Dare I suggest another anchor scheme?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Nathanael wrote:The efficiency thing, on the other hand, smacks you in the face every single pitch of every single climb, so it makes total sense to focus on optimizing that instead of hanging up on the details of quadruple redundancy or whatever else.
Exactly.
I once waited 15 minutes for a leader to craft a SERENE anchor, on a ledge, with a effing 10" diameter pine tree right next to him.
Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55
Morgan Patterson wrote: then talk about it for 19 pages?
Ah, now that other thread makes sense, it's only reached 12 pages so far...
bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,516

Stop thinking about this. You have engineering homework to do.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
David Engel wrote: You are right that our current anchors have failings and we should have some better solution.
Damn right! Those bodies are stacking up like cord wood from all the anchor failures. I wish the NPS would bring the meat wagon round Hidden Valley a little more often, I'm tired of stepping over stiffs on my morning solo outings.
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Will S wrote: on my morning solo outings.


;)
Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

I'm a hard, hard man Burchey! Nothing says stud dawg like cordless 5.6.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Some of the worst times I've had at the catbox have been sub-5.7

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70
Burcheydawwwwwwg wrote:fukkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
hahahahah
Michael Bae · · Vancouver, British Columbia · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 26

I often read accident reports and I don't think I've come across one where an anchor failed. That doesn't mean it hasn't happened, just saying I haven't read any accounts of gear anchors failing.

Is it me, or is it really uncommon that anchors fail?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Michael Bae wrote:I often read accident reports and I don't think I've come across one where an anchor failed. That doesn't mean it hasn't happened, just saying I haven't read any accounts of gear anchors failing. Is it me, or is it really uncommon that anchors fail?
It's very uncommon but not unheard of. There was the Tahquitz accident several years ago, and Anchors Away in Yosemite was morbidly named (I don't know if it was gear or bad bolts). I'm sure there have been others, but not a lot.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I know of two that both resulted in a double fatality. In both cases the anchor was in situ and most likely very old. One in the RRG about 8 years ago and the other in the Winds last summer.

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56
Nick Henscheid wrote: *photo*
.

So that's what you guys mean by "Use the rope". Got it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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