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Recommendations for a shoe that edges well?

Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

The Evolv Bandits have always been my to-go shoe for hard, technical face climbs (think Smith Rock). However, they are no longer being made so I am looking for something new--something that edges well. I dont want to pay a ridiculous amount for new shoes (e.g. TC Pros) and I'd prefer a lace-up, but it's not a deal breaker. So let's hear it, what's the Evolv Bandit replacement?

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

Spend the money. These are one of you most important tools. Id suggest 5/10 for you as they have a similar fit to evolve.

I own 5:10 verde and lasportiva TC pro's and they will both hold a small edge . I love the 5:10 rubber

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
20 kN wrote:The Evolv Bandits have always been my to-go shoe for hard, technical face climbs (think Smith Rock). However, they are no longer being made so I am looking for something new--something that edges well. I dont want to pay a ridiculous amount for new shoes (e.g. TC Pros) and I'd prefer a lace-up, but it's not a deal breaker. So let's hear it, what's the Evolv Bandit replacement?
From the Evolv lineup the Luchador is a decent edging shoe. If your feet fit in 5.10 at all, the 5.10 Anasazi Blanco is coming back and it is (or was, hopefully they didn't change anything on it) one of the best edging shoes available.

Edit to add: I just wanted to add that the Luchador isn't in the same league as the Blanco as far as edging goes, but Evolv doesn't really have anything in their current lineup as far as an amazing edging shoe goes (at least not one that I've tried).
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
kennoyce wrote: If your feet fit in 5.10 at all,
How does 5.10 fit compared to Evolv. For example, the Evolv Defy? The Evolv Defy, Quest AF and Bandit all fit my foot shape perfectly. I've yet to try 5.10.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

You might check out the Anasazi Pinks as well.

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

Five Ten Verdon lace up

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

The heel cup in 5.10s tends to run a bit looser than Evolv models of comparable size. Lots of places still have bandit lace ups and velcros on stock online, although size selection may be limited.

And yeah, I climbed the hell out of many pairs of bandit vs. Awesome edging and good for cracks. only complaint was that the fabric and rubber just below the Achilles would split and tear before any other part of the shoe making them poor candidates for resoling.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
20 kN wrote: How does 5.10 fit compared to Evolv. For example, the Evolv Defy? The Evolv Defy, Quest AF and Bandit all fit my foot shape perfectly. I've yet to try 5.10.
The main issue with 5.10 is the heel usually has a bunch of dead space in it for my feet (I also find evolv shoes to fit my feet better than any other brand), but I think that at least with the latest version of the Anasazi VCS they made the heel much better, so hopefully the same will hold true for the new Blanco. As far as sizing, I wear a 9.5 Defy, and a 10 Blanco (assuming that the sizing doesn't change on the new Blanco). Also, as others have said, the Verdon is supposed to be a good edging shoe, but I haven't tried it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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