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Routes in Waimea
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All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Catch the Wave S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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China Glide S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c |
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Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mr. Gerbick (Refined) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a |
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Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R |
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Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rhythm X S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Riviera Don't Surf (Aka Riverboat Charlie) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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TABDITO S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Dave Graham 1999 |
| Page Views: | 27,340 total · 139/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Feb 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I have not sent this route; however, I have spent a disproportionate amount of time falling off this route...
China Beach is the ultimate sport climb and is the standard against which all other sport climbs should be judged. It climbs up the center of one of the steepest walls in Rumney and it offers no rests after the first bolt. It contains hard moves, but not so hard that it could be considered a "boulderer's route," like so many other hard routes at Rumney. It requires a top level of both power and endurance for the send. It's also solid in its grade, having held it's rating for around ten years now, unlike Livin' Astro on its right, which has heard some down-grading mumbles. No one is in line to downgrade the Beach, that's for sure.
China Beach begins with a few moves to get established before the hanging corner. This corner overhangs at about 45 degrees and forces the climber into desperate, insecure layback moves, similar to moves you might find on a trad route. You are more likely to fall due to a foot skating than from strength failure. Yet, it's still taxing. This sections ends at a horizontal about two-thirds of the way up. Dan Nguyen initially redpointed this section at about 13b or c.
The horizontal doesn't offer much in the way of rest, and the next section is the crux which consists of long moves to crimps and difficult foot moves. To call this crux V8 is to discount the previous climbing up the corner. Off the dog, it feels V8ish, but on redpoint it feels unratable. Pumpy, big moves follow up the headwall and culminate in a strenuous iron-cross move left to a pretty big hold. Matching the hold is the redpoint crux, and many a valiant attempt has ended here.
China Beach has captivated climbers for many years and it is common to see people climbing on it just for the fun of it. Big falls are expected. A redpoint to the break is a worthy objective as well. Any time spent climbing on the Beach is time spent communing with a perfect, pure, hard, inspiring medium.
China Beach is the ultimate sport climb and is the standard against which all other sport climbs should be judged. It climbs up the center of one of the steepest walls in Rumney and it offers no rests after the first bolt. It contains hard moves, but not so hard that it could be considered a "boulderer's route," like so many other hard routes at Rumney. It requires a top level of both power and endurance for the send. It's also solid in its grade, having held it's rating for around ten years now, unlike Livin' Astro on its right, which has heard some down-grading mumbles. No one is in line to downgrade the Beach, that's for sure.
China Beach begins with a few moves to get established before the hanging corner. This corner overhangs at about 45 degrees and forces the climber into desperate, insecure layback moves, similar to moves you might find on a trad route. You are more likely to fall due to a foot skating than from strength failure. Yet, it's still taxing. This sections ends at a horizontal about two-thirds of the way up. Dan Nguyen initially redpointed this section at about 13b or c.
The horizontal doesn't offer much in the way of rest, and the next section is the crux which consists of long moves to crimps and difficult foot moves. To call this crux V8 is to discount the previous climbing up the corner. Off the dog, it feels V8ish, but on redpoint it feels unratable. Pumpy, big moves follow up the headwall and culminate in a strenuous iron-cross move left to a pretty big hold. Matching the hold is the redpoint crux, and many a valiant attempt has ended here.
China Beach has captivated climbers for many years and it is common to see people climbing on it just for the fun of it. Big falls are expected. A redpoint to the break is a worthy objective as well. Any time spent climbing on the Beach is time spent communing with a perfect, pure, hard, inspiring medium.
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