What's your favorite thin crack shoe that can edge?
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.75 camalot down with good edging ability. I usually wear TCs and they fit my foot real nice but find I struggle to jam them in thinner cracks. |
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the pink Anasazi lace-ups have always been my favorite for thin cracks and face. |
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Sportiva Mythos is not the best edging shoe, but great on slab and real thin. Getting old, may need a replacement. Any better than Mythos? |
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climbing friend, |
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Any shoe that is built around a thin stiff fore-foot mid-sole. |
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+1 for Mythos |
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katana laces |
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What are you planning to climb in these shoes? |
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Katana laces. I have mine only .5 euro down from my street shoe. I can really torque them in thinner cracks as though they were a soft shoe (mocs), but they still edge and stand on crystals very well. Crack experience is granite and basalt. |
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+1 for the five ten pinkies. My favorite shoe by far |
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I wear women's katanas sized comfortably, they keep your small toes pretty flat and edge super well. Amazing technical crack shoes. It's a shame they delaminate every time.. |
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The Miuras aren't bad if you toes aren't bent too much inside. |
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I just bought a pair of Muira's had been meaning to try them for years, and my TC's just got stolen from my car. So looking to still get solid foot jams out of these relatively aggressive shoes(compared to Mythos for example) i was pretty conservative about the sizing. I wear a size 11 in work boots and often a 10.5 if I want a more snug fit for sneakers. However I only purchased the Muira's at a size 43 and they so far have been great for crack climbing, although I am just getting back into climbing after a hiatus so I haven't actually been pressing the grades. But I am loving them. so +1 for muira's. Sure they will eventually get pretty voluminous for what I am used to but whatever. |
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Tenaya Masai will fit into thin cracks and have a stiff forefoot. They edge very well (esp after C4 re-sole). |
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When you guys say Miuras, I assume you mean the lace ups? Wouldn't want to jam much in the VS... |
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Appreciate the input. |
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5.10 Blancos |
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Yeah, actually the Muira Vs's are what I was referencing. They have been feeling great. |
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I'm a big fan of Katanas (Velcro). I use them to compliment my TC Pros for thin cracks. Same last, and more sensitive than the Katana Lace. I just tape over the lower Velcro so they survive wider cracks. |
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I have been very satisfied with the new Scarpa Vapor laces. Out of the box they edge really well. I size mine +1/2 size above street shoe size for flat to slightly bent toes. You might consider street shoe size if you have narrower feet or short toes. Eventually they soften somewhat and have less edging support, but then they smear really well. |
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Kevin D. wrote:I'm a big fan of Katanas (Velcro). I use them to compliment my TC Pros for thin cracks. Same last, and more sensitive than the Katana Lace. I just tape over the lower Velcro so they survive wider cracks.Kevin, The Katana Lace and the TC Pro have the P3 last/"platform," which makes for a stiffer shoe than the Katana Velcro. |