Remove the Chasm View rappels on The Diamond?

Tony B wrote: Works so well for drug wars and birth control, what could possibly go wrong? (*wink*)

I second the idea of a bolted path through the NC.

I'm here in Estes celebrating my family's 100 years and six generations of our land and cabins above the Y. I love climbing on Longs and began my forays up there in '93. I'm not some super crusher but I've climbed the Diamond in just about every style discussed. My opinion is the more convenient we make everything, the more inviting for inexperienced climbers. Sometimes though, experienced climbers can be guilty of doing things, or not doing things, as well. We really need to focus on helping each other out and being friendly to everyone while up there.

My biggest contribution here is to say something that nobody seems to discuss. Take your time climbing through and above dangerous zones. It costs an extra 15 minutes to slow down and make sure you don't knock down loose rock, whether roped or not. Be conscious of your fellow climbers and not so concerned with beating people to your chosen route. Be ready to climb whatever is available and to wait if necessary. The time to climb fast is on the Diamond, not in or above the Chimney. These zones are easy enough and will go quickly enough even when taking your time. I've seen it all up there and it's horrible when things go wrong. With that said, I would not want to remove the raps or add fixed lines as I wish to preserve the adventure and freedom this opportunity gives us. Make good choices, don't be selfish or egotistical, and take an attitude with you that "anything you get to climb on the Diamond is just a bonus." If you enjoy just being up there, you will make humble and wise decisions in a zone that will always have a lot of risk. Have fun, be safe, and be good stewards of our environment, to your fellow climbers, and to the non-climbing community alike! Thanks all!

Bosier Parsons
President and Co-Founder - Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance

"Here...Here Bosier!" (holding my IPA pint high in the air)
The Longs Peak area is what-it-is! The place is INDEED a special place, and those who partake is it's glory should understand, and plenty do, that it's also a SERIOUS place. To get to Broadway is interesting to say the least. Thank god it is many miles from the trail head to keep many, not all, yo-yos at bay.
My 2 cents... leave things alone and take GREAT CARE while up there.
Cheers!

I simuled the Crack of Delight a few times in the past couple weeks, and it left me wondering why the North Chimney is the recommended approach. Crack of Delight is easy, has very little loose rock, and lots of natural pro.

Watching all the crap fall down the NC while we cruised up CoD made me wonder...why isn't Crack of Delight the recommended approach?

Jonathan Awerbuch wrote:why isn't Crack of Delight the recommended approach?

Justin S wrote: It's soaking wet for much of the season.

Curious, where any of the suggestions in this thread ever followed through with?  Never done the Diamond (I'm actually moving out to CO in a month and half) and would certainly like to someday (obviously after much preparation on other easier alpine routes) and would want to make sure I'm properly prepared for w/e has been done to change conditions on the NC.  I just want to be the most prepared noob on that if I can do anything about it well in advance.

"Christopher Smith wrote: Curious, where any of the suggestions in this thread ever followed through with?  Never done the Diamond (I'm actually moving out to CO in a month and half) and would certainly like to someday (obviously after much preparation on other easier alpine routes) and would want to make sure I'm properly prepared for w/e has been done to change conditions on the NC.  I just want to be the most prepared noob on that if I can do anything about it well in advance.

There’s no reason to rap the chasm view raps. Start from the bottom like a "man". 

Don Ferris III wrote:

There’s no reason to rap the chasm view raps. Start from the bottom like a man. 

I was more curious if bolt stations were added to NC, not so much if the chasm view raps were chopped.  I have no problem doing a 5.4 chossfest as long as I'm going with someone who knows the route.  Sorry just neurotic about planning stuff ahead of time to an absurd degree, like if I'm lucky I might be in shape to do the Diamond by the end of this year's alpine season given my one experience in the alpine last August on Evans 2nd Apron Right.  At worst I'll be able to try it in the 2020 season I'm thinking after getting more used to climbing at altitude.

Don Ferris III wrote:

There’s no reason to rap the chasm view raps. Start from the bottom like a man. 

Shall this also be required of the women who do it?

Tony B wrote:

Shall this also be required of the women who do it?

Sorry Tony, fixed it for you.

Christopher Smith wrote:

I was more curious if bolt stations were added to NC, not so much if the chasm view raps were chopped.  I have no problem doing a 5.4 chossfest as long as I'm going with someone who knows the route.  Sorry just neurotic about planning stuff ahead of time to an absurd degree, like if I'm lucky I might be in shape to do the Diamond by the end of this year's alpine season given my one experience in the alpine last August on Evans 2nd Apron Right.  At worst I'll be able to try it in the 2020 season I'm thinking after getting more used to climbing at altitude.

Did I miss something about bolts in this thread? Why on earth would there be bolts in the NC? You solo the NC, you don't rope up for the NC... You also don't put bolts in a known choss pile.

Eliot Augusto wrote:

Did I miss something about bolts in this thread?

Long Ranger wrote: Yeah. The original post was about the topic of removing the anchors from the Chasm View rappels. That's easily found by reading the first post in the thread.

It makes sense that someone not familiar with the area may get these two locations mixed up.

I'm not getting Chasm view bolts and non-existent bolt stations in the North Chimney mixed up.

Eliot Augusto wrote:

I'm not getting Chasm view bolts and non-existent bolt stations in the North Chimney mixed up.

The only thing I see about bolting the North Chimney is "I second the idea of a bolted path through the NC. "

I'm not saying you are.  Christopher Smith revived an old thread and asked some questions.

Bivys on Broadway suck.

I'd love to see an alpine hut on supports.

If it had a cable car the rockfall would be a non-issue.

Dude, a mountain hut on Mt. Lady Washington would be fabulous! Also, rescues could be mounted from there and the rescuees could be sipping port in record time after being plucked off the Diamond in winter storms.

If l had a voice l would support less in the alpine. 

Eliot Augusto wrote:

I'm not getting Chasm view bolts and non-existent bolt stations in the North Chimney mixed up.

One of the original suggestions on this thread was bolting NC to keep people from getting off the cleaner rock and going into the choss which is apparently how most rockfall happens on the route.  I was simply trying to find out if that suggestion had been followed through on.