Five Ten Anasazi Replacement

What would people recommend to try for a new show. Whatever they did in this last version I can't climb for more than 2-3 hours without my foot killing me. I have spent 10+ hours a day with the older model without much more than a little minor pain but nothing yelling at me to get these things off now.

I have considered trying on a half size bigger to see if that will work but the shoe just feels different now, alot stiffer in the toe area which is what i am assuming is causing the pain now.

Any thoughts on another shoe that is like their old style to try out? (I have been wearing these for like 6 years now and hate to change, keep thinking they may break in a little but no luck yet)

That's funny, I thought the next model was a touch looser than the original.

I had a friend who climbed in the Tenaya Ra and said they were similar.

What size are you wishing for? I have two pairs of the originals, one never used, one barely used, size 36.5, up for sale...

If you haven't used the Miura lace-up, I'd give it a shot. I find it to be more precise due to the asymmetry. It's marketed as an aggressive shoe but after 2 sessions they are just as flat and comfy as any Anasazi shoe. I personally own both the Miura and Anasazi VCS and use the two interchangeably.

Love the Verdon's

Definitely stiffer but they're fantastic, and use leather so it actually breaks into your foot shape.

Try the La sportiva katana lace (or TC Pro), don't even bother with the miura lace it's outdated design means it only works well for it's intended purpose for about 2 months, it then quickly looses all it's shape and becomes basically a laced slip on.

Idk the Miuras seem to work pretty well for Adam Ondra.

Katanas are super comfy, but I don't know if I'd want to wear them for 10 hours.

Ted Pinson wrote:Idk the Miuras seem to work pretty well for Adam Ondra. Katanas are super comfy, but I don't know if I'd want to wear them for 10 hours.

Ondra will only use new miuras, look at the new miura xx that was developed with ondra, it addresses the miura's glaring weakness.

that guy named seb wrote: Ondra will only use new miuras, look at the new miura xx that was developed with ondra, it addresses the miura's glaring weakness.

What was that, too much yellow?

Ooooh! That shoe is sexy. Lace up Miura with P3 and extra toe rubber? Hells yes!

That being said, Adam sent many of his famous 15s in the classic Miuras, so they obviously didn't hold him back, but he probably put on a fresh pair for every burn lol.

I too loved the old anasazi and I recently had good luck with the tenaya masai, same sizing as the anasazi.

The fit in the front is similar but with a more comfortable heel. I only got them recently so no long term experience but they were more comforatble from the get go, we'll see if it lasts.

The scarpa Vapor laces are also pretty good and I think the toe box is more similar to the anasazi than the miura is. However, I got them one size smaller than the five tens and it was too aggressice to keep them on my feet for a multiple pitches.

+1 for the tenaya masai.

NorCalNomad wrote:Love the Verdon's Definitely stiffer but they're fantastic, and use leather so it actually breaks into your foot shape.

Just curious if you went with street size or sized down? I'm in the same boat as the OP, and have looked at these. I just tried on a pair 1/2 size down and it had a weird pinch/rub on my ring toes, almost like the stitching was sticking out. It would be awesome if that stretches out and becomes a non issue, or maybe it was just that pair. Also, have you used them for cracks?

Ted Pinson wrote:Ooooh! That shoe is sexy. Lace up Miura with P3 and extra toe rubber? Hells yes! That being said, Adam sent many of his famous 15s in the classic Miuras, so they obviously didn't hold him back, but he probably put on a fresh pair for every burn lol.

Ikr, the "P3" they describe is actually more similar to what scarpa has on their new shoes, i remember when scarpa copied La sportivas P3 with their "bi-tension active randing" and their other weird rand systems, though it appears the shoe's on the other foot. Pardon the pun.
vimeo.com/176462871
This is the vid i'm referencing.

Eh, I don't get the difference between that and regular P3.

I am personally in love with the new Five Ten Quantums. Awesome shoes. The sole is pretty stiff, which I like because I have some bad tendons in my big toes. I've been able to size them big so they are not painful, but the shape and stiffness in the sole still give me plenty of power. It may lack a little sensitivity, but I haven't found it to be a problem.

I even crack jammed in them a little the other day and thought they were pretty decent.

that guy named seb wrote:don't even bother with the miura lace it's outdated design means it only works well for it's intended purpose for about 2 months, it then quickly looses all it's shape and becomes basically a laced slip on.

To be fair, the OP asked for replacement for the flat-lasted Anasazi, not the solution. The fact that the Miura doesn't hold its downturn isn't a factor in this comparison. Also, if appropriately sized, the Miura breaks into a shoe with an exceptional comfort:performance ratio that works quite well for long days on vertical, or less than, terrain.

Leroy Fielding wrote: Just curious if you went with street size or sized down? I'm in the same boat as the OP, and have looked at these. I just tried on a pair 1/2 size down and it had a weird pinch/rub on my ring toes, almost like the stitching was sticking out. It would be awesome if that stretches out and becomes a non issue, or maybe it was just that pair. Also, have you used them for cracks?

I did go with my street shoe size.

Yeah the last really aggressively curves down from the big toe. I had to put up with a few days of really painful breaking in, since my second toe is longer than my first. But now they're great! I don't use them though for cracks since I sized them to be more of my aggressive all-rounder, and I already have a bunch of shoes for cracks :P.

Here is my size squirrel page if that helps. sizesquirrel.com/profile/no…

Thanks NorCal! Appreciate the info.

Jack Stephenson wrote: To be fair, the OP asked for replacement for the flat-lasted Anasazi, not the solution. The fact that the Miura doesn't hold its downturn isn't a factor in this comparison. Also, if appropriately sized, the Miura breaks into a shoe with an exceptional comfort:performance ratio that works quite well for long days on vertical, or less than, terrain.

Yeah, Alex Honnold did a lot of his big solos in them and wasn't exactly taking them off at every belay...

Jack Stephenson wrote: To be fair, the OP asked for replacement for the flat-lasted Anasazi, not the solution. The fact that the Miura doesn't hold its downturn isn't a factor in this comparison. Also, if appropriately sized, the Miura breaks into a shoe with an exceptional comfort:performance ratio that works quite well for long days on vertical, or less than, terrain.

As the miura looses it's shape it also gets super soft, hence why i suggested the TC Pro or katana lace.