Gunks Hardest Routes

In an effort to preserve Gunks history Andy Salo compiled a comprehensive list of every route 5.12a and above. Tremendous assistance was provided by Russ Clune. Due to the nature of many of these routes having access issues we are not publishing the route areas, just the names and grades.

If you see a route we are missing give a shout! We are in the process of adding direct app links through Gunks Apps so that if a climb resides in an app you can jump to it directly from the list. Enjoy!

gunksapps.com/news/GunksHar…

Cars that eat people
Future shock , ? I think you got that
Artist on a land scape
Thunder dome Right & left?
Marooned
The Snius
( did I see that you got )
Dark shadows?

Merlin Larsen sent a line that I mentioned to Andy?
Merlin also sent a thing left of The direct finish to Modern times.
it is only thirty five long a few feet over to the left very hard crimps under the short overhang,
Be carful not to touch the microwave sized block that makes the mantle hard.

My and Peter Hovlings 'Trophy Hunter' climbs out the hanging pointed block that is half way across Romano's left to right (gem's gym?) then heads from the point of the block to a hard latch, mantel(11c?) ask him! I think it was harder(12a/b)

I'm not sure that I can really do this list justice, (3rdEdit)
As much for my memory as name dropping there
Was a handful of misfits who sought out the solitude
And recorded nothing. They sent each other out after
Climbs that were word of mouth some were huge sandbags
My apologies for any one omitted and my spelling errors

There is no way to get a complete list

??????To wit:"

P Bouissinat

Bones' routes?( J Gruenberg )

Dan Purcell

R Romano

J Munson

D Lhanman

T Leeds

Brett Wolfe

Paul Marshall

M Berlingame

Bret Malone

Gus Kneff-Compton

Larry Schaffer

Frank Tac?

M Hershof

D Perry

K Uhle

There are more,

a '?' After a name is for people who may have been around a long time

They Were, from time to time, close to hitting te hardest climbs

When the best at the time were on, things got climbed
climbed, then tried , seconded ascent, top roped variations got led
All around climbing was what went on.

some times gear was left in place,

Some times it was left in place just for a season.

A very hard or very obvious Great line might be a word Of mouth climb among 5 people then lost. Ive talked to a few of the old time climbers who banged pins.That would tell me of lines to look for.
You had to know how they climbed to know what to look for.I've banged pins, cleaned a line of holds and placements climbed a few variations And never admitted that it was me.I have been rebuffed by the Weak sauce admins for adding My routes.Short of doing what Donald Perry has done, laid claim to his legacy There is little that can be done,As proof here in all this long winded bullshjt is this :"Sticky Vicky" was led this year with a nest of pre-placed rps and filed ball nut. It's now called "In Diana Jones".

Who having once been shown
Returned

The oriental 'monks'

Visiting Austrians & Germans.

My apologies to
all the great climbers in the group. Omitted

There are short hard climbs on Both sides of the entrance to the sun bowl chasm.
And the climbs on the front of the pinnacle?
The overhanging wall that forms the 'bowl' far right facing the cliff in the back of chasm.
I think Lynne led, it ask pumpkin ?

It's a work in progress and some climbs got missed simply by my inability to convert Andy's list into HTML.

Right right I'm not trying to be difficult! .......

only climbs that have been led , Right Got that!
And that stuff that Andy sent!! Wow excellent !

I'm stoked to see this ! I had not looked at the list carefully
to the point, though
The hardest climbs in the Gunks is a tall order!
Michael Siacca, just flowed up stuff some times,
He was savant like at times, it was weird to watch him climb.

I've mentioned the Lost World stuff to Andy....?

Anyhow
great list !

There are some things that only a very few people know of
I'd don't know the names out at table rock
Or wHT the opening roof at the out back slabs goes at?...

I've had coffee now, sorry if my post is mistaken. I think it is all good!

As I said I never climbed much harder than 12.......?.......Oh?

11d......

(boo hiss from the teenage me....they promised us time travel by now, and jet packs, I want one or the other )

The 12 Barrier was the cause of real grief to some, not me.
there Are things with multiple names, and contested ratings,
which is why this is such a great idea
The efforts and honesty you guys have showed is Awesome.

Keep throwing stuff out there that's not on the list and we will investigate.

One of the problems is that there are climbs that go by more than one name.

Also, we are not going below 12a and there is contention about many routes at the 11d/12a range. So for exampl: to me Marooned is 11c or 11d so it's not on the list, but if someone thinks it's 12a they will think it's an oversight.

The main point though is that this is a best first attempt at creating a single list that covers the long and broad collection of hard climbs in the Gunks.

Christian Fracchia wrote: The main point though is that this is a best first attempt at creating a single list that covers the long and broad collection of hard climbs in the Gunks.

Kinda sucks the list is only names and only a few people will have access to all the info. Pretty much worthless really... I mean cool if you're Andy or Russ or you but there's 0 info on any of them.

Hey Morgan

The list is a work in progress. FA and area info is on the back end of the list and hasn't been added yet. It will and will then become more useful. Some of the climbs are access sensitive so the list is meant more of a historical record than anything else. Also, some climbs are hyper linked to the App if they appear in there, so it's not completely useless like you said. In any event, if you or anyone has any questions about a climbs specifics message me and I'll happily oblige

AndySalo wrote:Hey Morgan The list is a work in progress. FA and area info is on the back end of the list and hasn't been added yet. It will and will then become more useful. Some of the climbs are access sensitive so the list is meant more of a historical record than anything else. Also, some climbs are hyper linked to the App if they appear in there, so it's not completely useless like you said. In any event, if you or anyone has any questions about a climbs specifics message me and I'll happily oblige

I get the sensitive access issue stuff... but really then why post the name at all? In an area like the gunks u run the risk of people will start asking questions and then start wandering off into these sensitive areas causing issues, no?

The Gunks has a deep rooted history. This list is an attempt to encapsulate the harder end of that. I highly doubt that mentioning "Supercrack" is going to get people to start wandering all over Skytop in an attempt to locate and climb it. For climbs that aren't access sensitive but not listed in any guide, people sharing info via word of mouth is how these areas have been passed along anyway. Furthermore, the amount of people in the Gunks actually interested in 5.12 and up is scarce. Very scarce. And even those that are don't venture much past the usual haunts.

AndySalo wrote: Also, some climbs are hyper linked to the App if they appear in there, so it's not completely useless like you said. In any event, if you or anyone has any questions about a climbs specifics message me and I'll happily oblige

Fair enough... Nice work man!

You make a good point as well... We had already discussed not listing the area for any off limits climbs.

OMFG OMFG SUPERFUCKINGCRACK!!!!!!!!

Mike, I have copy and pasted your routes you suggested in this thread.

Since I'm not to shy to say did you ask Richie R about the scooped face to the righ of Arrow wall?
I saw you guys included some things and not others?

Peter Hovling hit a very hard 11? 12a 'TROPHY HUNTER' maybe only 11c for you ?
(if you can't reach the bucket up on the face . It was a dyno's from the point,)
that climbs out the pointed rock shaped roughly like an arrow or a . . . .
that juts out mid-way thru 'Gems Gym'
(the Romano thing traversing left of 'Exit Stage Left' )
ask Peter.

Breaking out of 'Wicked Dianna to turn the edge into the heavy lichen, Is ' Sticky Vicky'
Only 'led' with a fixed line to clip, hung from the top, thru the lichen.

Merlin Larson led thru the left side of the top of 'Modern Times Direct',
hard crimps to a mantel with a micro-wave block sitting on the small awkward ledge in the short capstone.( that was kind of a boulder problem avoiding the excellent Direct that passes the amazing slot and 2 holes )

Did you check out the climbs left of and right (?) of lost world ( again the direct is different than the Don P rout.
I took J Khel up there, he led it then solo'd it

Pretty sure That no one has climbed the leaning collum off left of 'High Times'?

And the one I've captured a shifty picture of left of Bone Hard?.
Rock Climbing Photo: Left edge , distorted
Left edge , distorted

Gottlieb's Sky Writing?

A climb Jimmy Munson was on
'Starting In The Middle', has a vicious first pitch that is do-able,
it is the parallel running roof crack To the Face above ( the middle ) never linked the moves
It is the obvious big roof /face 'up hill' from the Omitted 'Wango Tango'.

There were Dougy Hunter routes and 'Scary' Larry Schaffer/Paul Marshall routes
The one I know for sure in a Chasm at Lost City that they called Glistening Vibro-foam'

Only one Mike Siacca route?

Yes confirmed that the route right of Arrow was not climbed.

I heard about Trophy Hunter but Peter wasn't able to give me details that were specific enough to pin-point the location

How hard in the exit stage left variation?

"Sticky Vicky" was led this year with a nest of pre-placed rps and filed ball nut. It's now called "In Diana Jones".

Will investigate Modern Times Direct. Grade?

Have not been up on Lost World yet, but we are working more in the Nears to fill in the Gunks Apps Nears

I think we have Sky Writing as unknown hemlocks maybe

Left of Bone Hard? Circumcisor?

The problem with Lost City is some of the routes have more than one name

Glad to hear you guys are working on filling in the Nears App! Can't wait to see it.

Morgan Patterson wrote: Kinda sucks the list is only names and only a few people will have access to all the info. Pretty much worthless really... I mean cool if you're Andy or Russ or you but there's 0 info on any of them.

This is an effort to include the 'Not,"IN" climbers, Morgan's concerns are reall
It is Not possible to Find a local to take you ever time

Christian Fracchia wrote:Yes confirmed that the route right of Arrow was not climbed. I heard about Trophy Hunter but Peter wasn't able to give me details that were specific enough to pin-point the location How hard in the exit stage left variation? "Sticky Vicky" was led this year with a nest of pre-placed rps and filed ball nut. It's now called "In Diana Jones". Will investigate Modern Times Direct. Grade? Have not been up on Lost World yet, but we are working more in the Nears to fill in the Gunks Apps Nears I think we have Sky Writing as unknown hemlocks maybe Left of Bone Hard? Circumcisor? The problem with Lost City is some of the routes have more than one name

I am not saying that MODERN TIMES DIRECT BELONGS ON THE LIST

V1 ~TROPHY HUNTER,
Hieght dependent
ONE OF THOSE
3-4 move wonder climbs but worthy
protected-able, fun AirBall fall.

From the ground, there is an Independent climb. (5.6 pg/r)
It starts in an open book steps right at 20ft onto the blunt arête
and then shadows the original line, to the left by about 20 feet.
It is best to climb onto the GT ledge at the regular routes spot.( cleaned of debris )
so the thought was it was too similar to be it’s own line.

The second pitch is the stuff,
Climb carefully up the stacked flake,
(avoiding wet shoes, the mud and rubble on the GT ledge.)
move up left then back, up (left of center)

Or move more right easier, in corner on the edge of the flake
(can be wet)to top of the 'Stack or flake"
continue…, up the regular Modern Times crux, Above the lip stay left . .. ..
The direct finish is :…

Stay left after the crux go up slab /face to the bush under the white cap stone .

(the bush is almost in the way nowadays, sling it as gear.)

The horizontal also takes big cam : Many sizes will work (?#2-3 try-cam)

( #3. 5?)placement, is the biggest piece needed on the whole route!!).

Find the Amazing Hold just above the lip,
to the RIGHT of the bush (v2 breaks out left)
above A.H. are two sharp holes
(Use 1? for gear)
if you need,
the short person
may need to get a hold here to reach to the horizontal,

get gear? & get the gear! at the horizontal,(
(#.5,, .75 BD C4, & ?1.5 Frnd size)

move up smooth,
clean -ed, white rock . . .
the streak between the lichen.

caesar.salad wrote:Silly kids. Nothing in the Gunks is over 5.9+.

5.9+'
Hehe,that IS what I said, ( BITD ), Too.
yup!
that's Old Shool right there!,
That said,~
A fall to the 'slab'/face(MT roof, below)
from before the clip @ the horizontal, (at the top)
With stretchy modern cords ?( I was told!)
( twin ropes, falling not recommend )

I'd love to know how hard the whole Direct from the GT Ledge is?
5.10b ?
(harder if you are short)
tall person has to have high step ability,
(Hand foot match)

well protected with springy things & Tri-cams.

• (v2) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above,

Don’t touch the block (should be trundled) that is sitting on the small ledge (mantel)
this is a high altitude Top of the cliff v4? Boulder problem.
The Bombay chimney, V3,
(1979, when the Tree was still below, not the one under the MT crux)
to the right of all the business just described,
escapes at about 5.7r and can house birds and poop.

• MERLINS' left of the main Finish

by to days standards
The Direct is moderate, protected where it needs to be
A great line IMHO

EDIT""\/
moved from 2 posts below this post.11/15/16

oldfattradguuy wrote:Some of the hardest routes do not have the hardest grades..... One name is conspicuously missing. In the 80's there was a community consensus not to report new routes in the media if they were in outlying areas. This was about the time that the community also got together and decided no bolts, kids like Doug hunter got shut down.

You SO know THAT I know ! I have been careful

. & More than just one name!

Don't hold back ( memory is a fleeting thing )

There is no point in saying much about the history of the cool kids V's others who were not "IN"

O.F.TG.~ glad to see you, I'd take few 'kids' like Dougy
compared to what we have today.
You should be glad you're not here.

Then at the other end of the spectrum, there are the likes of the OP and many others,

My post was re-posted here, that's fine, I posted it to a Lost & Found thread,
Where a very impressive climber was looking his "forgotten in the leaves" lost stick-clip.
He said he was using it the way Donald Perry used to use tent poles.
(you remember?)some people were trying to be funny maybe,
so I explained and included the one climb.
I did not Say Where that climb is.

I lived, bought , 168 Elting Road
The Original Sand Hill Farm. Not what the "Map" claims it is today
That Problem, that still exists, is the reason I had to leave.

I fell off stuff, but I climbed a lot, for years, so did you.

Fuh, If we had known there would be an APP for that? . . . . .

have you seen this?

youtu.be/ZoA-t9KbKms

It is same as ever;
no beta,
The cruxes are edited out.
locals can't even go to some places
IT IS THE SAME AS IT EVER WAS
LOCALS ONLY BRAHJ,
I doubt it matters
the cool 'kids' ages,
yours and mine too.
Makes us almost irrelevant :^!

Silly kids. Nothing in the Gunks is over 5.9+.

Some of the hardest routes do not have the hardest grades.....

One name is conspicuously missing.

In the 80's there was a community consensus not to report new routes in the media if they were in outlying areas. This was about the time that the community also got together and decided no bolts, kids like Doug hunter got shut down.