How to grasp aiding technique?

Hi all!

I'm currently getting into aiding and big walls (woo!), but I need some advice/inspiration on how not to be so awkward using my aiders. I am currently learning on a bolt ladder in my gym, but I keep running into the same problem of barn-dooring out of my aiders.

Any advice on how to combat this? Or any advice to what worked for you when you were learning? I would love any words of wisdom! I am super psyched, but just like with any other climbing discipline, being a gumby is hard.

Thanks!

Sav

Practice, Practice, Practice!!! It's awkward at first, it will get better with practice. Tight corners will for ever suck though.

For me it depends on the set-up I'm using. If I'm only using one I prefer etriers with alternating steps. Helps you stay in balance easier. If I'm using aid ladders (steps in line) then I prefer using two. The balance is easier that way. Aid ladders are tough to balance in with one foot right above the other.

Other than that, I agree with the previous post. Practice.

I'm not sure but it sounds like a posture thing.
Shoulders back,
not rounded over, ( looking at you're feet )
head up.
And suck in your butt. Keep your self vertically aligned when you step up.

Is that The moment of the barn-door? When you go for a step from one to the next?

Step with your core engaged, do not step by bending everything, only the knee needs to bend up to step. Not an open angle, wide split between the legs,
Form is everything to bring efficiency.
do not lean down and use your hand to help put your foot into the rung, go for the lower rung.
Practice practice practice
Aid is hardcore work. Standing straight shoulders back core engaged,
organization & Gloves
required.

Chris Mac has lots of good aid videos but I think this will apply to you most.

https://youtu.be/o8977ZYkxRQ

It sounds like the problem is that you're just keeping your feet one above another. Climb up to where you want to be then get your other foot out of the aider and onto the wall to provide balance. Like you would free climbing. Just as with free climbing look up to see where you might use rock features for balance for your hands and feet. It can feel strange at first when you start aiding to also use the rock, because you're using aid ladders and daisies, but use it all and you'll be a lot better off. Practice practice practice and you'll find the rhythm and balance.

There's a lot of options for footwork, movement and body position in aiders that become more natural with practice:

1) Look for any features or holds that you can use to augment the aiding, don't feel confined to the aiders. Flagging/laybacking/smearing/whatever on the spare foot can really help give you a boost and stabilize. A .14a fingerlock/crimp can be enough in aid to balance you in your top-step.

2) Just as your arms provide tension while laybacking, the daisy serves that same purpose.

3) Big movements: I'll set my fifi in the 2nd pocket, scrunch up and put my feet in the top steps, then stand up in one big motion.

4) Small movements: I use them too, stepping incrementally from one step to the next. What matters most is that you're constantly moving.

5) Keep moving: All those pauses that beginners take really add up. A1/A2 should take 30-45 minutes per pitch, not 2-3 hours.

6) Spacing: Getting a placement that's 6' up is great, but if there's a closer placement that's efficient, I'll take it. As a beginner though, make an effort to space your placements further out, I see a lot of people that have gear 12-24" apart.

7) tip: always have the daisy on the spine of your biner. If it's resting against the gate, it can unclip itself as you stand up.

8) Steepness: Be aware of the angle, it's easier to top step and get your hips in (which straightens up the back and shoulders, improving reach) when the steepness slackens. Duh, right? But it's easy to loose track of all sorts of stuff when you're overwhelmed.

9) Take a roll of tape, tear off a piece, and place it as high as you possibly can. Sit back down, tear off another piece, and place it up and to the side as far as you can. Repeat until you see your entire range. Then, do it again, only better. Then do it again using any footholds and/or crimps available. Then do it again on a steeper portion of the wall. Then again, returning to the bottom step each time. Then again, on lower angle wall.....

What's your setup?

When you're working your way up the aider how do you go about moving up the ladder?

Alan those are some really great tips! I'm new to aid, but this basic 'tip' really helped me

I've found having a large biner (dmm boa) as the biner clipped from aider to piece gives a stable hand hold when the aider is weighted to hold onto while stepping up. Wearing fingerless leather gloves makes this a lot more comfortable.

So try weighting aider, holding onto the biner clipping your aider to the bolt as you step up. Try stepping up without adjusting the daisy and you might find that your movement becomes more intuitive and 'natural' feeling. If the wall is overhanging using the tether to get yourself close to the piece might be necessary

Try some different setups, some folks swear by 4 ladders but using only 2 works the best for me and what I've done so far. It's addicting!

Enjoy! Hope this helps

Thanks to everyone for the advice and all the replies! I was pretty shocked with how many people really took the time to give such helpful tips.

Update: I've gotten a lot better... with a lot of practice, that is. I literally haven't stopped practicing both using the aiders and jumaring. I leave for Yosemite next Friday with my ultra-competent boyfriend, and I definitely feel a lot more comfortable going into this now. Plus, I get to know I worked my ass off to try and prepare for this trip which sits with me easier.

Thanks again everyone!

Alan Doak wrote:9) Take a roll of tape, tear off a piece, and place it as high as you possibly can. Sit back down, tear off another piece, and place it up and to the side as far as you can. Repeat until you see your entire range. Then, do it again, only better. Then do it again using any footholds and/or crimps available. Then do it again on a steeper portion of the wall. Then again, returning to the bottom step each time. Then again, on lower angle wall.....