All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park

Sugarloaf Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sugarloaf

L › R R › L A › Z

	California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Earn Your Pho TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	582 ft
GPS:	49.6457, -123.20551 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	78,630 total · 380/month
Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Apr 29, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.

Getting There

From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.

13 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Sugarloaf Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 68 ● Magnet Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 44 ● Lieback Crack Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 17 ● Stairway Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 47 ● The Mechanic Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 26 ● Power Smart Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 12 ● Hotwire Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 45 ● Thriller Off the Void Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 8 ● Heavy Charge Trad, TR