first lead in gunks

so today i went out with a guide and did a lead class in the gunks. we did education on the ground and then we did a lead climb. i had climbed with him before but i had never lead anything.

we climbed betty - a 5.3 that is normally 2 pitches but we broke it up into 4 to give more learning, keep us closer together, and anchor building practice. the climbing was not too hard and it was perfect for my level.

i have to say, it was one of the coolest, most exhilarating outdoor activities i have ever done - this will definitely drive me to come out of my "shell" and actively seek out people who are willing to climb with me in a trad/multi pitch setting - i really loved it :) i'm pretty new but serious and i want to learn and am willing to listen

that is all...ill be back for more

Congrats for you! This is awesome. I did my first lead at the gunks too...I think it was Three Pines.

So excited for you!

Keep at it, enjoy yourself, and have a ton of fun!

Rock on amigo!

J

Very cool. what was your climbing experience/level before taking this class? I am Hoping to learn to lead in the gunks this fall.

Trad is rad! Just stay safe out there.

Congrats. Your excitement reminds me of when I first started climbing. Very little rivals the bliss brought about by climbing.

I will echo the sentiment to stay safe out there. When I first learned to climb, and shortly thereafter lead, I fell passionately in love with climbing. Full of gusto, I wanted to it all right away. That passion led to me rushing my progression and I ended up making a mistake that I will most likely regret the rest of my life. Enjoy this new found love but be sure to keep a level head and stay attuned to the risk involved.

I wish you the best of luck and perhaps we will see you around the Gunks.

@chris borg I had climbed a few times over the years and on and off at the gym for a few years. Nothing major at all. I have been hiking/scrambling in the ADK and Cats for several years in all seasons. Taken some winter mountaineering classes in NH as well. About 4 months ago I decided to get into climbing more serioulsy and have been hitting outside twice a month or so and trying to hit the gym twice a week. I have gone out with a guide in the Gunks 3 times now (general climbing, building TR anchors, leading skills and setting pro/building anchors) and have had an excellent experience. I would like to go out with him again this season to go over leading and multi pitch climbing a bit more and then potentially a self rescue oriented class as well. I continue to reach out to partners and am trying to be very specific and discriminating about who I climb with. I continue to read pretty voraciously about climbing.

My plan is to keep anything I lead to no higher than 5.3 and follow up to 5.5 or so in the Gunks. I've followed on 5.6 but also got spanked on a 5.6 a few weeks ago. I hope that helps answer your question. I suppose I led a climb sooner than a lot of people I have heard about, I am not sure. I put my trust in my guide and he said...let's do this and I said, gulp. But he felt I was picking up the skills reasonably well and it would be a good experience. It was. To be fair it was a fairly easy lead, normally 2 pitches and we broke it up into 4 which was a good help.

@ted and @valerie thanks for your input. I appreciate the candor and @valerie thanks for sharing your story. I am trying very hard not to rush myself into any bad situations and let me exuberance cloud my judgement. Thanks again.

neils wrote:we climbed betty - a 5.3 that is normally 2 pitches but we broke it up into 4 to give more learning

Congratulations! What a nice first lead! Great pro and varied climbing. I assume you did that cool "step across" to the left at the top of the chimney?

My first lead at the Gunks was Belly Roll - a few years ago ;)

wivanoff wrote: Congratulations! What a nice first lead! Great pro and varied climbing. I assume you did that cool "step across" to the left at the top of the chimney? My first lead at the Gunks was Belly Roll - a few years ago ;)

thanks - yes that is exactly what we did. the step across to the left and then across the exposed area to the top. Got a nice photo of myself there :) It certainly is an impressive photo but the actual climb was comfortable and not scary, big holds etc. I definitely enjoyed it.