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Help us plan a trip? 1 week, looking for easy, big multipitch.

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Toad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Trying to plan a trip, but we could use some help getting started. What we're after is a week of fun, easy multipitch (sub 5.9) with big exposure that we don't get in the East. It's almost impossible to get more than 4 pitches out here. When I close my eyes, I picture tall, desert spires 9 pitches long with fairly easy climbing. We've never climbed out west, but have climbed all over the eastern US.

- Late September
- 7 days total
- Starting from Kentucky, willing to drive but not crazy far
- Also willing to fly, but damn that's expensive
- We have a big trad rack, a 70m, a 60m, and can camp
- I'm solid to lead anything my partner could climb (ideally ~5.7)

I hear Red Rock is great, but it's 28 hours to drive there and apparently $400+ to fly. Are those cheap vegas deals a myth?

Anyone know about anything in New Mexico that would work? Is late Sept too hot for most places? Also, we know nothing about Colorado.

Would love your input, wise friends!

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

Long multi-pitch, late Sept, at 5.7. RMNP is out, Lumpy is getting cold. For the money you would spend in gas buy a ticket Vegas and focus on Red Rocks. Will be a little on the warm side, but should be ok, I would think.

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

Go to Linville Gorge, in NC. You can climb every day for a week and not climb the same thing twice or climb harder than 5.8. It's also easy driving distance for you and September will be perfect weather.

Alan Emery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 239

Try the North East ... Gunks, Daks, Whites, etc. The weekends here can be a challenge, but the weekdays are usually pretty quiet.

DrugDoc · · Dix, IL · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Where at in KY? From Paducah, you're about 17hrs of drive time from Moab. It's a stretch, but I drive straight through once a year, and it's always worth it.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Fly to Vegas, then use two of your driving days to climb even more multi-pitch(or spend those 2 extra days in JT). Look for flight/hotel combos for better $.... closest hotel to the canyon is Red Rock Casino. it's nice there but there is usually cheaper deals elsewhere. Late September should be ok heat wise.

Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105

Go to the valley my friend.. you can climb 16 pitch 5.9's and below till your heart is content..

Royal Arches
Middle cathedral
Nut cracker
Snake dyke

And it's probably the best place I've ever been in my entire life.. go there and go now.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, for what you're looking for (really long moderate multipitches), it's worth finding a way to Red Rock. I'm surprised Vegas flights are so expensive...maybe because you're not near a hub?

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Tim Meehan wrote:Late September is beautiful in Boulder, CO. Flights from Cincinnati to Denver are $150 right now. Miles of moderate multipitch climbs in Eldo and the Flatirons. The biggest challenge is lodging - either expensive or involves driving or sleeping in a rental vehicle in town - but it isn't impossible.
This. In your situation, Eldo and the Flatirons are perfect. Many long excellent routes in the 5.6-5.9 range. Some of the best moderate multipitch around. Nice featured sandstone. As mentioned, though, figuring out camping/lodging is a crux. Also, it can be busy on the routes, though if you are climbing midweek that helps a lot. Plus, like anywhere, 90% of the climbers are on 10% of the routes, so if you walk just a little farther you can find quiet.

Other ideas:

Lumpy Ridge: Contrary to what Bill M said, I don't think that it will be too cold there. Late September is pretty ideal, actually, since the routes face south and are warmed by the sun (summer is too hot). Also, the summer thunderstorms are gone, so again September can be great. Just be prepared for chilly mornings, and if it is cold or stormy you can just bail down to Eldo (about an hour away, and at lower elevation). Anyway, Lumpy has great moderate multipitch, and in September it won't be crowded. Good camping in the Park (much better than th ecamping around Eldo). High mountain setting, great views. This would be a perfect destination- exactly what you are looking for. Also, since Eldo/Boulder is only an hour away, it would be easy and sensible to visit both in a week.

Red Rocks- Great moderate multipith, but late September will still be quite warm. Also, much farther than Colorado, and you'd have to fly. Overall, hitting early fall in Colorado mountains will be much more pleasant than still-summer in the desert.

Devil's Tower and/or the Needles/Black Hills: A bit farther of a drive than Colorado, depending on where you are coming from, but closer than Red Rocks. Great weather in September. Classic destinations, good "Western" ambience, and you get to summit towers.
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Unless you opt for Linville Gorge (which looks great BTW), you're going to have to suck it up and fly or have a long drive. Red Rocks, Boulder, the Valley, or even Tahquitz (my fave for long moderates) would be terrific. If it's any incentive, that time of year if still doable for Tuolumne. The Valley without the heat and (fewer) crowds and the Meadows. You could even bag a peak or two. The money you save on lodging by camping would offset the airfare, though you'd have to fly with a ton of stuff.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Red Rocks hands down. Dozens of long routes at the grade.
Shade or sun depending on the weather when your there.
Easy access, camping, cheap eats and groceries.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Try this, Toad. Albqu, Nm. Sandia Mts. Enough long, easy routes to keep you busy for a week. I havent climbed there in over a decade, but it's probably still a cool place.

mountainproject.com/scripts…

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Red rock is for sure the spot. Better (in my opinion) than the valley or front range for what you're describing you want. Cheap flights shouldn't be a myth if you can get yourself to a major airport. Also there's a lot of good Air BnB options in Vegas.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Everyone seems to be very into Red Rocks. The climbing is great, but...heat. Average highs in Vegas are still around 90 in the last week of September. Sure, it will be cooler and shady if you choose routes wisely, but if will be rather warm the rest of the time. Plus, that campground is heinous in the heat.

If you are going to fly and rent a car anyway, you could go to California. Lovers Leap, Tuolumne, and Tahquitz all offer great moderate multipitch climbing, and will be cool, uncrowded, and pleasant at that time of year. You could have a great weeklong trip at any of the three, and it won't be blazing hot.

If driving, Colorado is the obvious choice for simple reasons of drive distance.

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 535

+1 Red Rocks.

And John Wilder's beta is spot on, he's the go-to for RR. Check out Origin Gym while you're there.

damon farnum · · MA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 20

Cannon in New Hampshire would be a decent option. Check out Whitney Gillman at 5.7 and Moby Grape at 5.8, both excellent options, long and an amazing mountain with good exposure.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

Washington is likely too far, but my tick list is full of long easy routes.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

You could get anything for weather in late Sept in Red Rock. Could be withering heat, could be chilly. With the longer routes in the canyons, they tend to be quite a bit cooler than the cragging areas. I look at Sept as similar to May, and I've done plenty of long RR routes in early May and worn jackets on half of them. Same with the Valley, I had an epic on a wall route in late Sept when a heat wave hit some years ago.

I don't think there's a better place in the US for long, moderate, multipitch routes that suit east coasters better than Red Rock. YosValley noobs get smoked on wide, flaring, and polished jam cracks, whereas RR is much more intuitive, cranking on edges mostly. Adjust your choices to the weather (i.e. don't be on Solar Slab or other south facing sun baked routes if it's hot).

The other good thing about RR, there are stacks and stacks of really good moderate routes by comparison to other areas. That helps with the inevitable crowding you find on most areas' long moderates.

But! If you really want to free climb towers specifically, know that most of them are nowhere near 8 pitches, more commonly about 4-6. And the spot for that is to base out of Moab. That said, there aren't a ton of great tower routes at 5.9 and under. A few, but not lots them. trying to think what immediately comes to mind - Ottos 5.8, Owl 5.8, Kor Ingalls 5.9, sixshooter 5.6, drawing a blank after that.

If I were you, I'd go to Red Rock.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I've heard Canon is pretty serious...unpredictable weather, lots of loose rock, committing routes and difficult route finding...not for the faint of heart, even if you're doing routes that are moderate in technical difficulty. Not sure what the OP's experience level is, but worth taking into consideration. Cathedral ledge might be a better option for moderates.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86
Seth Jones wrote: Fly Southwest and get a couple duffel bags that are the max allowed size without paying oversized luggage fees. The first two checked bags are free. Pack smart and you should be able to keep both bags under 50lbs and fit all of your climbing and camping gear. Carry some heavy stuff in your carry-on if its going to be close. I agree that paying the $ for flying and camping would be better than driving and staying in hotels. The time you save not driving halfway across the country is well worth it.
Totally right on the luggage. Plus if you have 2 people going that is 4 bags. Easy to camp and climb.
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Will S wrote:YosValley noobs get smoked on wide, flaring, and polished jam cracks, whereas RR is much more intuitive, cranking on edges mostly.
Well that is true. If your crack skills are wanting, then you will likely experience something of a learning curve. The Meadows though is pretty user friendly. Lot of moderate routes established in recent years as compared to the mandatory runout stuff from 20 yrs. ago. You could spend half of your time at Dozier Dome alone (though it's only three pitches). Add Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peak, Mt. Conness, etc., and you've got a good week. That or Red Rocks...? Quite a horrible quandry you have choosing between those two. ;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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