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> Stawamus Chief
> Apron
Diedre
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 666
votes
Routes in The Apron
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A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cha-Cha Crack, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Under her Apron T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63 |
| Page Views: | 76,950 total · 359/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Sep 9, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.
P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.
P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.
P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.
P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.
P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.
P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.
P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.
P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.
P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.
P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.
P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.
P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.
Location
Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.
To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).
To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).
Protection
Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.
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