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Original Post
Gee Dubble · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 4,082

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Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Analogy?

Nutty

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Their are actually three rappel stations up there....

The furthest skiers left is set up for two raps on one 60M rope with plenty of extra. BUT, loose rock is encountered to get to them.

The middle rap, cord in a fire hose around a lock is a 34M rap. I did it with 1 70 meter rope.

The furthest skiers right is on bolts. This is the longest rap station.

I could be wrong, that's just what my memory serves.

Also, if you hate first time alpine climbers with their questions/needs, get off the OS/Exum routes and enjoy the rest of the mountain that can be quite all summer long.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

On of the "problems" on the Exum route is that you get people coming up the lower Exum who are fully capable of just soloing the upper Exum, and their plans---including how they are equipped---do not include plodding behind a party that in addition to actually moving slowly while climbing is belaying every pitch.

There are many variations on the upper Exum, and so to some extent faster parties can circumvent slower ones. This is a good thing.

So although sharing the mountain is important, it shouldn't be a matter of everyone getting in line. Parties should be able to work out passing with good will and good humor.

And if you want to pass someone, you sure as hell should actually be faster.

Once you get to the rappels, everyone has to wait their turn, or else climb down the OS...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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