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Mt Goode North Buttress approach conditions

Original Post
BruceB · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 100

Looking for info about the approach to the Mt Goode North Buttress. Does the approach require ice axe/crampons? or is it snow free.
Thanks.

Todd Anderson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160

From last weekend (not me):

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

The approach involves glacier travel, and the descent includes a moderate to steep snow couloir. Apparently the glacier is in pretty Goode condition right now.

Goran Lynch · · Alpine Meadows, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 6

Two different Goodes!

BruceB · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 100

Hi Todd, thanks for the info, but that's the Mt Goode in Washington. Looking for info for Mt Goode in the Sierras.

Todd Anderson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160

I wish this were the first time this has happened to me....

Sean Maher · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2014 · Points: 1,255

Here's some potentially useful photos from a recent (7/17) dayhike to Bishop Pass... Didn't actually climb it but the snow is very minimal and maybe melted by now. Would love to get on this climb some day



It won't let me upload a photo of the backside for some reason but theres a few big patches of snow back there. Not sure if those are on the descent route or not.

BruceB · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 100

Went up the N Buttress on 8/5.
The snow field at the base of the buttress is still fairly large. Crampons are definitely are a good idea. It would be very sketchy without them. We took one set, I cramponed up to the start of the climb and then belayed my partner up. He slid quite a few times and had to yard on the rope in a couple of spots.
A 60m rope was just long enough to reach across the snow field (maybe 50m).
Fun climb, but be careful what you tug on!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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