Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 842 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Temporary trail closure & Thumb and Needle Closures - resolved with The Thumb Open Space creation DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an obvious line on the East side of The Thumb. It does receive a star in Gillett's but not Rossiter's guidebook. Not too bad when you're trying to squeeze in something between downpours. You can do this in 1 or 2 pitches; however, the 2-bolt anchor depicted in Rossiter's guide seems to be gone.

From the trail's junction with The Thumb, head right about 50 feet. Look up & see a right-angling, right-facing, obtuse dihedral with blackish lichen (a touch slippery when wet). This is the line. Start up face moves to a short, left-facing dihedral with a fixed orange TCU. The start probably warrants a PG-13. The crux of the route is likely the movement out of this dihedral onto face holds up & right. Continue up past a pin (no bolts to be seen), follow the right-facing corner up, pass another pin. At about 100 feet up, you can move left about 12 feet to a 2 bolt anchor or you can continue to the top.

From the top, you can move above the slabby West face, drop down (with a belay), and find a set of slings threaded through a constriction. Rap 95'. Or you can downclimb to Brace Y'self aka Pin Route's anchor & rappel.

Location Suggest change

This is located on the E side of the Thumb, about 50 feet up & right from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection Suggest change

Wires, Aliens to #2 Camalot. A 60m rope is useful. Per Buster Jesik: this now has a bolted anchor.

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