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Wild country REVO

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Brian L. wrote:Lol, you are ridiculous. Yeah, this will be used for solo only because of the insignificant use case you describe. Right. Anyway, don't put people in that situation consistantly if you don't want to deal with it. Climb easier routes Don't climb with those people Have them toprope the route
Wow, why do you assume i have gotten my partner to lead somthing hard? Who the fuck does that? Oh wait, you're probably projecting. Also good luck top roping severely overhanging routes.
Joseph Crotty · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 1,903
that guy named seb wrote:The more and more i look at this device the more and more i think it will only be useful for soloing, the assisted breaking is nice for catching falls though seems to give no locking ability when your partners hanging on the rope while working his way up.
Seb that's a good point. Be very curious to see how it works when leader is "dogging" a route heavily. I do like the key features of assisted auto lock and that you load the rope into it in either direction and it's irrelevant.
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
that guy named seb wrote: Wow, why do you assume i have gotten my partner to lead somthing hard? Who the fuck does that? Oh wait, you're probably projecting. Also good luck top roping severely overhanging routes.
If you're climbing with someone who constantly goes bolt to bolt, they're climbing over their ability. If you're the more experience, able climber (which I assuming you are in this situation), I'd say you should be trying to guide them toward more appropriate climbs. For their sake and yours.

If it's only occasionally, well, it's really not that hard to hold the rope.

But anyway, my point was: your 1% case doesn't justify this as "only be useful for soloing". If that's a reason you don't want to use it, that's fine, but the statement is just ridiculous.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Brian L. wrote: If you're climbing with someone who constantly goes bolt to bolt, they're climbing over their ability. If you're the more experience, able climber (which I assuming you are in this situation), I'd say you should be trying to guide them toward more appropriate climbs. For their sake and yours. If it's only occasionally, well, it's really not that hard to hold the rope. But anyway, my point was: your 1% case doesn't justify this as "only be useful for soloing". If that's a reason you don't want to use it, that's fine, but the statement is just ridiculous.
So someone who isn't falling and only resting is climbing over their ability? What are you talking about? I guess ondra is climbing well over his ability because he falls at every bolt. Don't talk shit, resting on the rope and falling are functionally the same thing.
aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

Epic TV has another video on the Revo (and the Grigri+ too).

epictv.com/media/podcast/a-…

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

According to a sales rep I emailed, it will be available in the US in March.

I'm not sure I would use as a belay device (ATC works just fine for me and those I climb with). However for TR soloing it looks like it could be the holy grail. From the descriptions/videos it appears to tick most/all the desired functions to make solo TRing a seamless experience:

1) feeds easily
2) can't be loaded wrong - catches fall on either end of rope
3) can easily down-climb without it locking (this has been lacking in all the devices I've used so far)
4) once locked by a fall or weighting it, it unlocks by pulling on the free strand and lowers just like an ATC. No separate device needed.
5) no need for a chest harness to hold it in a vertical position for easy feeding and it seems like it could handle inverted falls without the chest harness (similar to Silent Partner)

Something that remains to be seen is how much weight is necessary on the end of the rope in the beginning to get it to self-feed (until the weight of the rope is enough).

In my experience of using many different devices for solo-TRing, you either get an integrated lowering capability but less desirable feed (Grigri), or easy feeding but need a separate device for descending (mini/microTraxion and Microcender)

Of course the actual proof will be once it's available and people start testing it for this type of application. Also one still needs some type of back-up system - YMMV.

According to the sales rep, solo TRing will not be a mentioned/approved use in their documentation similar to the Grigri, etc.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

The burning question is whether it still works reliably after ten years covered in sand and shit and after being dropped a few times.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

There's no sand in the gym, the shit is, one hopes, confined to the bathrooms, and the floors are padded. Problem solved---just don't bring your REVO into the bathroom.

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

My main concern in relation to solo-TRing is the relative "complexity" of it compared to micro/miniTraxion, Microcender, Grigri, Goblin, etc. Much less to go wrong with those. My devices haven't really gotten that dirty but the way the Revo works it may be a lot more sensitive to dust/grit, etc.

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 656
aikibujin wrote:Epic TV has another video on the Revo (and the Grigri+ too). epictv.com/media/podcast/a-…
This looks really nice. I'd love to try one out. On the other hand, I feel like Petzl solved two different problems on the GriGri+ for two different types of people: anti-panic for new climbers and/or gym top ropers, and the adjustable cam for feeding rope quickly. Wouldn't it have made more sense to release two different versions of a grigri2 and retire the old version? One with sensitive cam and anti-panic for top ropers, gyms, and new climbers and one with a weaker cam for sport climbers?
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
Alexander Stathis wrote: This looks really nice. I'd love to try one out. On the other hand, I feel like Petzl solved two different problems on the GriGri+ for two different types of people: anti-panic for new climbers and/or gym top ropers, and the adjustable cam for feeding rope quickly. Wouldn't it have made more sense to release two different versions of a grigri2 and retire the old version? One with sensitive cam and anti-panic for top ropers, gyms, and new climbers and one with a weaker cam for sport climbers?
Replied to you in the new GriGri thread, so as not to go off topic:

mountainproject.com/v/new-p…
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote: So someone who isn't falling and only resting is climbing over their ability? What are you talking about? I guess ondra is climbing well over his ability because he falls at every bolt. Don't talk shit, resting on the rope and falling are functionally the same thing.
I imagine climbing a 5.15 is different than climbing a 5.10 or 5.12

Both falling and resting on the rope are in the end the same thing but how I get there is different. I usually fall because something went wrong and I take because I'm tired or I cant figure out the moves. So yes I do take more than fall, and I do get on climbs that I usually fall/take once or twice at the crux or on the route that can be limiting .

It also has to do with me being kind to my old tendons and being able to climb climb outdoors multiple days with out a break.
Joseph Crotty · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 1,903
Jim Titt wrote:The burning question is whether it still works reliably after ten years covered in sand and shit and after being dropped a few times.
Jim that's a good point. What's your gut take and/or engineering insight as to long term longevity?
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,617

I suspect that the Revo is no less complicated, or only slightly more, than your typical cam, so the same rules of usage apply - regular maintenance is important, inspect, check action, clean etc. High wear areas are made from stainless steel, it seems like it uses low friction bushings as opposed to ball-bearings, there are some small springs. It doesn't look like is can be easily dis-assembled by the user - which is probably a good thing. I theorize that the bushings will be the first thing to go - not sure what the estimated MTTF (mean time to failure) is.

It's probably made by DMM? Those folks are one of the best; making their own stuff, WC and Marker ski bindings.

Revo - exploded view

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Most of the new WC stuff -- Ascent biners, New Friends -- is marked Made in Taiwan...

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Joseph Crotty wrote: Jim that's a good point. What's your gut take and/or engineering insight as to long term longevity?
No idea, my Camalots siezed up after a day sea-cliff climbing so hopefully it´s better than them!
Probably fine with careful maintenance and inspection but it´s a product being sold to ham-fisted climbers who appear to be able to destroy everything.
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,617
Noah Yetter wrote:Most of the new WC stuff -- Ascent biners, New Friends -- is marked Made in Taiwan...
Thanks for the correction.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
youtube.com/watch?v=xyGzwPB…
The rep confirms my suspicions, it's a tube device with a auto locking back up, not super useful for sport but could easily be the go to belay device over the grigri in most other circumstance (providing gloves are worn). Also looking better and better as a solo device, i honestly couldn't imagine a better device right now.
Rahn Laird · · NY · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 30

The only concern I have for TR solo would be the weight required to disengage the auto lock on the break strand. You would want to make sure your weighted rope (or potentially just the weight of the rope) does not disengage the lock and send you to the ground by accident. Every thing else looks perfect for it.....

Keen to try it out!

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
Rahn Laird wrote:The only concern I have for TR solo would be the weight required to disengage the auto lock on the break strand. You would want to make sure your weighted rope (or potentially just the weight of the rope) does not disengage the lock and send you to the ground by accident. Every thing else looks perfect for it..... Keen to try it out!
Definitely something to check and think about. Also why you should always have a backup.

I suspect if the weight of the free/weighted end of the rope was enough it would prevent the trigger from popping up to begin with. In that case the device still locks.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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