Climbing Vacation October 15-30, where?

I now have the opportunity to start taking some longer vacations. I live in WA but it will be too wet that time of year (October) for definitive plans up in the NW. I am not looking for an expensive vacation, but just somewhere I can get lots of classic climbing in. I have a pretty nice dirtbag rig setup and would prefer just to drive/camp along the way rather than fly somewhere and fly back (though that is not out of the question).

I don't have a partner yet that can tag along the whole time, so I will be bringing my silent partner and am willing to rope solo, solo aid, etc if I don't have one that can commit the whole time. If I don't find a partner by then, I will probably end up in Zion and do a couple solo walls. Anyone have suggestions or want to join up? I will be leaving from Washington State.
For background I have been climbing for 10+ years, have only climbed limited internationally (Colombia, Canada), and thanks to being a total gear whore have enough gear to solo a big wall. I am competent, responsible, and energetic climber.

Any suggestions? Southern Desert? Mexico? Yosemite?
Anyone interested?

SG

For a fall vacation I'll always recommend Red Rock if you haven't been. Booking in advance you can score a hotel with free breakfast and a pool for $25 a night or Airbnb a house for under $100. Less if you're lucky or splitting the room. Most of the campsites around Vegas are expensive enough to make the extra few bucks worth it. You can do endless climbing of all varieties for days and never get bored. If it rains on the sandstone you can climb granite or limestone within an hour drive. Free parking is ample for dirtbagging some/all nights, and easy driving distance from the NW. Also can pass right through Yosemite and JT on the way if you plan it right. Or if you don't want to drive plane tickets are cheap on Alaska. Climb during the day, vegas at night, cheap accommodations, good food.

All in all a great vacation.

My $.02

what about moab? plenty to do there and plenty of places to camp outside of town.

i dont have plains set yet but im going to try and take 1-2 weeks and head out there mid-end of october to take on some climbs i wanted to to in april. im solo also if i had a better idea of dates id be interested in joining up. i was also thinking of being in moab the last week of oct and then head over to vegas for the nhra races on the 30th then spend a few days at the red rocks and head home.

Given that almost everywhere can be good that time of year... I'd just check the weather to see if it meets your standards and go someplace that you're psyched to check out.

Thanks for the replies.

JK-
I hadn't considered LSA Vegas could be that inexpensive. Where are you finding deals like that? I haven't climbed there much. That may be a good choice. Would it be easy enough to find partners there that tinge of year?

Ted
Moab was also on my list since it is familiar to me from living in SLC. I know that would be easy to dirtbag around. My default trip is SLC/Cottonwoods (stay with friends), then head to Moab when weather turns. If you are going to take the time off, let me know and we can plan out which climbs would work to knock off.

Brent
I've climbed in a handful of the southwest destinations but hearing from others helps me from doing the same trips. I'm psyched about things that will be out of season then like the Bugs, Squamish, Banff, or at least high enough risk of being rained out that planning ahead makes more since than waiting and then jetting out to a destination without partners. Also others can have insight on wind, weather, crowds, etc that I won't.

Pretty sure the big mtn bike week in Moab is october..I don't know what weeek. You don't wanna be around then.
You could do a san rafael swell/zion/red rocks deal pretty easy though....all great places.

that bike festival is the 27-30th , thank you for mentioning that .

i wont have a better idea on my travels till end of sept. ill be out there sometime near the end of the month just not sure yet, but i would like to go up castleton, ancient art, and head to the creek for a few days.

October is probably a great time to be in Las Cruces. Further than Vegas, and less travelled.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/organ-mountains/105789445

DrApnea wrote:JK- I hadn't considered LSA Vegas could be that inexpensive. Where are you finding deals like that? I haven't climbed there much. That may be a good choice. Would it be easy enough to find partners there that tinge of year?

The climbing there is absolutely rad, and close to endless.

I usually book rooms through Kayak, and can usually get something not completely sketch for pretty cheap if I book a couple months in advance. Travelocity will sometimes have deals that Kayak won't. Unless something big is going on in town, rooms are cheap day of on weekdays too.

Pretty much anytime of year you can find partners, but October should be especially easy. You could contact Desert Rock sports a week or two ahead of your trip and see if they still have a partner finder board and would put something up for you. You could just hang out by the entrance with a sign offering to trade belays.

Well. Plans are slowly falling into place... Now I just need partners... Hopefully I dont have to just rope solo with the SP.

10/15- Drive from WA to city of rocks (COR).
10/16- climb COR
10/17- drive to SLC
10/17-10/21 - climb in the Cottonwoods (weather permitting)
10/22- drive south (earlier if weather bad in SLC)
10/22-27 - climb in the swell/Moab/castleton/Indian creek areas.
10/28- start heading home.

If anyone is interested in getting on some routes up to about 5.11 let me know. I've been climbing for over a decade, am safe, and have enough gear to get on almost anything.

You should stick around Moab that weekend, last of October. The AAC cragging classic is in town. Should be a great way to end your road trip with a party and a bang!

mid-October in the City of Rocks... 50/50 it won't be climbable. The City gets cold by mid-October as it is nearly 7000' in elevation. You'll definitely need full sun. Any clouds and game over.

Ita a halfway stop really. I've climbed in the city later than October. 50:50 is right but at least you can chase sun for warmth. Really though, it is the wind that gets you that time of year! Assuming its not snowing also...

Aloha Doc.
If you wanna hit up a wall in Zion I would be interested.My s.p is in need of a well deserved rest;) Shout when your in Salt Lake. I live near Lcc,would climb there too.

Sounds great. I will

DrApnea wrote:Ita a halfway stop really. I've climbed in the city later than October. 50:50 is right but at least you can chase sun for warmth. Really though, it is the wind that gets you that time of year! Assuming its not snowing also...

If COR looks dicey and you need a last minute Plan B, Boise is only about 2500', and the Black Cliffs are climbable a whole lot of the time, some winters. Not destination climbing, but 6 hours out from SLC, if it's time to stop and climb something on your drive over from (I assume) western Washington.

Agreed on the wind. No wind, 40ish, sun. Good to go!

23rd October weekend at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in AR is the Ozarks Outdoor Rendezvous. I help teach climbing for noobs, there are day hikes, and gear giveaways. Join the Hiking the Ozarks FB group for details.

The hills (they call em mountains) of AR will be changing colors. Would be great to meet for some climbs. On the way to the Red if planning end of Oct there.

how about this: smith rock to lake Tahoe (trad, sport and bouldering) Id talk Tahoe up because the temps are getting good and there is some classy stuff up here. But then 395 south down the eastern sierras to Tioga pass and mammoth area, too cold up there? head to bishop if you lika the boulders or rock creek and pine creek. Lone Pine is an hour south, Alabama hills and Whitney portal. even Joshua tree..."all time" road trip and man your hands would be jacked up. weather permitting. Then red rocks... and then jam threw Utah and by that time the temps would be even better out there. Man that would be epic... oh yeah maybe see you in jtree 23-26

Kevo wrote:how about this: smith rock to lake Tahoe (trad, sport and bouldering) Id talk Tahoe up because the temps are getting good and there is some classy stuff up here. But then 395 south down the eastern sierras to Tioga pass and mammoth area, too cold up there? head to bishop if you lika the boulders or rock creek and pine creek. Lone Pine is an hour south, Alabama hills and Whitney portal. even Joshua tree..."all time" road trip and man your hands would be jacked up. weather permitting. Then red rocks... and then jam threw Utah and by that time the temps would be even better out there. Man that would be epic... oh yeah maybe see you in jtree 23-26

I'm actually doing this line almost to the T. I live in CO and decided to solo bum my trip:

17th - 23rd mammoth lakes/bishop/Clark canyon
24th - 30th? Utah/Indian Creek/Moab/cottonwoods

I have gear for sport (leading in the 9s) but would love to get on some trad lines. We should meet up if you decide to go to either of those places. None of the dates/places are set in stone, so hit me up if you're interested in making something work!

FYI I'm stuck in Vegas for a few days then ready to hit Zion and eventually Moab.

Trad climbing trip.

Well. City of rocks was good for about half a day. Then the monsoon hit. Drove to SLC. Looking for partners for Tuesday - Friday. I've climbed here for 3 years and know my way around, but partners all seem to have work. Anyone free?