traditional climbing

Thanks June/Kirby, comparing what you're saying with the description of that pitch on MP, it sounds like Ben (leader) broke the overlap too soon. [update - or not, see his comments below] It was great climbing, just don't recall he had any quality gear after he left the corner and felt more like solid, somewhat steep 5.6 slab on follow.

mountainproject.com/v/catha…

Probably should have stayed in the left rising corner for longer (?).

Catharsis 4th pitch exit (?)

Just noticed Ben posted in the comments below the catharsis climb description, so I'll let him tell you about it in his own words... :)

"By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Jun 1, 2014
rating: 5.6 R

Great route. Pitch 4 is very engaging. I'd call it 5.6 R. There is some real potential to take a ride coming through the arching corners near the top. After a piton (with cam back up right next to it) I don't think there is any solid gear for 20'. There is a thin flake but i wouldn't trust something I can expand with one finger. All that said, I think this is the best "easy" slab route in the park, just edging out Empress and Little Finger and totally opening up a can of whoop ass on CP slab Regular Route."

Hey Ryan (and others)- I'd be stoked to climb with you. I'm also looking for a trad/alpine/backcountry partner in general, so if that kind of thing sounds appealing shoot me a PM :) I live in Boston, and climb mainly in the Whites (Cathedral, Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) or at Farley. I grew up near the ADKs so I'm familiar with the area but haven't climbed there recently. Pretty much a weekend warrior, but my schedule is somewhat flexible. I'm comfy on Gunks 5.8, breaking into Gunks 9s, and 5.9-10 most other places. I'd be super stoked to get on some 5.10 and under long-ish (4+ pitches) routes anywhere in the Whites or ADKs. Hit me up!

Meg

Your description sounds right Kevin!

After looking at Ben's picture, yes he should climb up and left following the overlap til gets its smallest. There's 3 good gear placements, first one at the crux, second a little higher and the third before you step above the prow.

Mark Meschinelli showed me this way. The last time he was wearing 5.10 MTB shoes!! My F-ing hero that guy!!

Bill Kirby wrote:Your description sounds right Kevin! After looking at Ben's picture, yes he should climb up and left following the overlap til gets its smallest. There's 3 good gear placements, first one at the crux, second a little higher and the third before you step above the prow.

Excellent, thanks Bill. That gives me the bravery (beta) I need to lead it sometime. :)

im also looking to get in to some trad n looking for some partners pretty busy till mid September but I wouldn't mind taking a few days off work during the week if anyone is interested pm me.

Great day climbing at Farley with Ryan, Keri-Lynn, Al, and Bill (and countless others). Ryan and Keri-Lynn have a bright climbing future ahead of them! :)

Thanks Kevin Heckeler. (Sorry for the delay on this part of the post). We both enjoyed climbing with you! Hope we get to climb again, sometime soon. Thank you for introducing us to Tradational climbing! We both learned a lot from you!

Thanks Tim Doyle. I had a great time climbing with you up at North Conway. You taught me a great deal, within that one day of climbing. Once again, my bad for pissing my pants, while belaying you on the second pitch of Fun House. That was fucking hilarious though. When you gotta go....ya gotta go. I'm either gunna cool down on the water consumption or bring a piss jug from now on. Wicked funny experience for me though. Hope it didn't steer you away from climbing with me in the future....

Always looking for people to climb with. If your down to climb with a decent sport climber and somewhat competent trad climber then PM me....I can share the whole "peeing my pants" story with ya, for a good laugh too.

Hopefully that won't be the last time Ryan. It's slowly transitioning to Gunks season though, and the day pass is a factor in whether it's worth heading down there. If you're interested I'll keep you in the loop.

I haven't been out too many times since we last climbed together. I haven't forgotten.

Please please please keep your bladder under control at the crag. ;-)

Yeah, definitely let me know about day passes. We would love to go to the Gunks for a long weekend soon.

mohonkpreserve.org/hours-an…

Thanks. Keep me posted on dates and what not. I'd like to meet ya there!