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Accident on Shockleys - Sunday July 17th

Original Post
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

I was in the proximity of the crux pitch of Shockley's yesterday (July 17th) when the leader took a serious fall and suffered apparent chest/rib and possibly lower back injuries. I'm wondering how he is doing?

We did recover all the gear and turned in into the rangers.

Ronald Schroeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

Eric, Thank you so much for helping me and Nicole on Sunday. Nicole did retrieve the gear you so graciously cleaned from Shockleys. And thank you for communicating with rescuers below and helping to think through the process of descending, when I was in a degree of shock and confusion. I sent the following email to some concerned friends. I'm pasting it here so you have a few more details. And if Johnny Westfall of Keene, NH is reading this, thank you so much, Johnny, for your critical role in getting me and Nicole safely to the ground. I am in your debt. Really!
Here's the email I sent.

Dear friends
I’m sending this note to those who have voiced an interest or who might be interested in some of the details of my climbing accident last weekend.
This may be more of a cathartic exercise for me, but I hope it also provides some assurances for those who have voiced concern, and insights for those who continually weigh the rewards and risks of traditional rock-climbing.
I’m still uncertain about some of the details of this incident, but I’m working on that.
Last weekend, Nicole and I were rock-climbing in the Shawangunk Mountains (the Gunks) in Gardiner, NY. To make a long story short, I fell on the 3rd and crux pitch of a climb that I have lead at least four times previously with a number of different people (Shockley’s Ceiling, difficulty rating only 5.6). It was very hot and humid, and slippery sweat, I think, might have been a factor in why I fell.
At any rate, just as I was passing the “ceiling” crux, I slipped and fell about 25 feet, directly falling onto my back on a rock ledge below me. After slipping off the ledge, I was suspended upside down over about 150 feet to the ground.
Nicole held the belay, and after some moments of pain and confusion, I was able to upright myself and get back onto the ledge. All of the protection I had placed into the rock below me held fast. Nicole, who weighs much less than I, was whipped violently up into the rock and gear anchor a few feet above her, and was fortunate only to suffer some serious sprains and contusions to her legs and arms (not to mention the nightmare of watching my fall).
I did not hit my head, thankfully, and was wearing a helmet. I never lost consciousness.
I determined pretty quickly that I probably had at least some broken ribs, which I could feel, and my shortness of breath and chest pain told me I probably had ruptured a lung and probably injured my lower back, which was heavily bruised and painful.
Very fortunately, a climber was anchored about 30 feet to my side on an adjacent climbing route. We had been chatting casually earlier while we both belayed up our seconds. I owe Johnny Westfall of Keene, NH a substantial debt, as well as a man named Eric, who was helpful in planning our next moves, cleaning up our mess and communicating with emergency responders.
I was able to climb sideways to Johnny’s position and attach to his anchor. Nicole did the same, and we pulled our ropes over to Johnny, who then lowered me to the ground. Nicole then rappelled down and pulled the ropes.
I was met at the ground by the outstanding and rapid assistance of Mohonk Preserve rangers and fellow climbers who were gathered in the area. The rangers assessed my condition, and probably 50 people helped to carry me downward over coarse talus boulders on a backboard to the road, where an ambulance awaited me. (That was not fun at all!!)
I believe it was Eric who removed my gear from above, and others packed up my ropes, put our bicycles on a truck and left all our gear at the park visitor center to be retrieved by Nicole the following day.
I was rushed to the trauma center at the MidHudson Regional Hospital in Poughkeepsie, NY.
After spending two days there, I was released. The result was a few broken ribs (10-12), three fractured vertebrae (L1, L2 and L3), a ruptured and collapsed left lung (pneumothorax) and a broken clavicle (though I can’t even feel any pain in the clavicle).
So my condition is good, and from the moment I hit the ledge I have felt the most powerful feelings of gratitude for the relatively minor outcome and for the generous willingness of my fellow climbing strangers to undertake the daunting task of assisting me.
It is difficult now for me to change positions and especially to breathe deeply, but I can walk and sit and sleep. I have had to cancel a climbing trip in August to the Needles of South Dakota, due to flying restrictions related to the pneumothorax. But, in reality, it will take some time to talk myself into trad lead climbing again, if ever.
At the moment, the risks of trad leading seem to conflict with some of my primary life objectives, which include living long, staying healthy and learning as much as possible, not to mention to be able to enjoy and reciprocate the care and affection of my friends and family, especially Nicole.
Thank you all for listening and for your care and concern. When I have taken the time to analyze this further from a technical climbing perspective, in terms of the factors that might have led to my hitting the ledge despite well-placed gear, I may ask my climbing friends for their input and experience. I have some ideas.
I always felt that I had soberly and objectively weighed the risks and rewards of trad climb leading. I certainly enjoy the challenge and very much appreciate why one decides to pursue it. But I no longer believe that a sober and objective assessment is adequate. I now have a deeper, more visceral knowledge of the risks. I ask my fellow climbers to add this to the litany of experiences we have all had and witnessed involving rock climbing injuries, deaths and near-misses. For those that know Johann, I think of his accident at Echo Crag in particular and remember his early guidance and instruction. It seems that even the most skillful, fit and conscientious of us can be losers to the many objective dangers and unanticipated factors involved with trad climb leading.
Please be more careful than you feel you need to be.
Ronnie

Peter T · · Boston · Joined May 2016 · Points: 16

Thanks Ronnie for sharing this story... It is a sobering reminder of how dangerous this sport can be even when we think we are being as careful as possible. It doesn't take much for this kind of accident to happen. As you said, "be more careful than you feel you need to be" is a good way to go about it and something I need to keep in mind. Anyway, glad to hear that you are relatively OK, given how much worse this could have been. Hope you make a full recovery soon.

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66

Sorry to hear of the accident, and hope recovery moves along smoothly!

Ronald Schroeder wrote:just as I was passing the “ceiling” crux, I slipped and fell about 25 feet, directly falling onto my back on a rock ledge below me. After slipping off the ledge, I was suspended upside down over about 150 feet to the ground. Nicole held the belay, and after some moments of pain and confusion, I was able to upright myself and get back onto the ledge. All of the protection I had placed into the rock below me held fast. Nicole, who weighs much less than I, was whipped violently up into the rock and gear anchor a few feet above her, and was fortunate only to suffer some serious sprains and contusions to her legs and arms
Were you anchored below the ceiling, in the crack leading up to it from the ledge below (that you hit)? She belayed standing on the ledge?

Ronald Schroeder wrote:When I have taken the time to analyze this further from a technical climbing perspective, in terms of the factors that might have led to my hitting the ledge despite well-placed gear, I may ask my climbing friends for their input and experience.
The gear (presumably in the ceiling at the crux) can only stop your downward progress when your belayer stops going up. And if they don't lose control of the belay from the impact. An anchor to prevent/limit the belayer's upward movement would be a good idea with a big weight discrepancy.
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Thanks for the reply/update Ronnie. I'm glad to hear that you will be all right although the extent of your injuries indicates that your full recovery will probably take some time. I thought both you and Nicole did a tremendous job keeping it together - even remembering the car keys in your pocket.

If you haven't already read it I'd recommend:

"On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined" - by David Roberts (a wonderful person I have known many years who is going through his own very tough time right now). Might help you focus your introspection.

I hope that whatever direction you ultimately choose that you are successful.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

Ronald....truly sorry to learn of your injuries. I hope you recover quickly and completely. You were extremely fortunate to have had a helmet on. My wife and I have traveled to the Gunks from the west coast on numerous occasions and had the pleasure of climbing Shockley's ceiling twice. While you state that the difficulty rating is only 5.6 most climbers that climb elsewhere would tell you that it is much harder then that rating implies. Since you posted this incident to enlighten others I have two questions; 1st... if all your gear "held fast" how did you fall twenty-five feet? Did you have gear at the "ceiling" crux? And 2nd... as your partner weighs significantly less than you do, did Nicole have a "ground anchor" to prevent her from being yarded upward? Again, I hope you are well soon.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

Sorry to hear about your accident and hope you'll recover soon.

Like others, I'm interested in the 30 foot fall and how it became 30 feet.

IIRC, there are two pitons in a horizontal about 3 feet below that "ceiling" and there is a great placement for a #1 or #2 BD C4 in the crack that splits the ceiling. Were you clipped to any of that?

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Ronald Schroeder wrote:To make a long story short, I fell on the 3rd and crux pitch of a climb that I have lead at least four times previously with a number of different people (Shockley’s Ceiling, difficulty rating only 5.6)... just as I was passing the “ceiling” crux, I slipped and fell about 25 feet, directly falling onto my back on a rock ledge below me.
I was belaying someone many years back who slipped in likely the exact same spot/move and fell, landing on his back on the ledge but *just* as rope stretch slowed them enough to only impact mildly. They experienced discomfort from some bruising but we were able to work our way off.

I'm sad you got as injured as you did. Our post-fall analysis of the gear situation, with the help of an experience friend/guide, surprised all of us. We *thought* we had sewn the route up and done everything right, but cumulative draws, elongation, and rope stretch all checked out mathematically. Roofs are hard to protect without creating drag (using shorter draws when ledges are not far below). We figured a single long runner added 3-4 feet of fall alone. If I recall correctly he had used two on the top most gear. As I said, we were very surprised he was anywhere near that ledge after the fall let alone making any impact with it.

So what saddens me is that many of us likely protect sections of climbing incorrectly all the time, but until we have to 'test' it don't realize it's wrong/inadequate. And of course finding out the hard way in trad is never fun. :(

Speedy recovery!

Shockley's is by no means "5.6" It's says that in a guide or two, but it isn't. There's plenty capable climbers that struggle through that move. Modern Times (supposedly 5.8+) kicked my ass last Fall, despite being able to get up technical 5.10 most of the time. The Gunks are full of sandbags, it's one of the reasons I found mountain project in the first place - to weed out/skip those routes until I was ready to climb them (at their actual grade).
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

I'm often surprised by how far I end up falling on trad climbs. The main culprits are belayer motion, slack in the system, and rope stretch. Sometimes a piece of gear lower down zippers and adds rope to the system. Of these, belayer motion can sometimes be controlled. Well-placed gear is always a good idea, but in practice things don't always work as anticipated.

Slack in the system is the most controllable variable. In my opinion, most belayers leave too much, especially if their experience comes from overhanging sport and gym climbs. But belaying with only a small amount of slack in the system requires a lot of vigilance so that you don't continually short-rope the leader, and many belayers are not up to the task.

Rope stretch can sometimes be controlled. It is usually thought that having the crux as far up the pitch as possible is a good thing, because the extra rope in the system will produce lower peak loads on the pro. But the price for those lowered loads can be a lot of rope stretch, and if there are things to hit under the crux, it might be better to have the belayer close by and live with a higher impact on gear. Shockley's is often belayed from a stance way off to the side, putting quite a bit of rope in the system. A very attentive close belay on the ledge directly underneath might be a better idea.

Long slings can also be a problem. If I'm fairly sure I can reach a placement after pulling a hard move, I'll often clip it short (usually with a short alpine draw) and then either reach back and lengthen the placement, or get in good gear higher up and then downclimb to the placement and lengthen it. But obviously this usually won't work if the placement is under a roof. Also, as a half-rope user, I can often use short slings where a single-rope user will have to use longer ones. But again, placements under a roof typically have to be slung long no matter what kind of rope system you are using.

This leaves, as a final option, something that you usually only see from expert climbers, which is hanging on at mid-crux and getting in a higher piece, perhaps downclimbing to rest afterwards. This can, of course, be very strenuous and the fatigue involved can make the climbing moves themselves feel much harder.

You could do this on Shockley's, but you could also get a yellow Camalot in the crack splitting the roof, almost at the lip and so clippable with a quick draw, and this placement can be made comfortably from underneath.


(Jeff Deutsch photo)

I don't think you could hit the ledge falling from the crux with this pro unless the belayer leaves too much slack in the rope. Many people are only clipped to a long sling on something lower down on the back wall.
Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Damn man, it was chilling to read the climber's note. His comments about re-thinking trad climbing, and in particular his thoughts on life priorities, is quite sobering. I feel bad for this guy.

My takeaway is the securing of the belayer. I never do this. Not only was she hurt, but her pull may have been the difference between the climber hitting the ledge or not.

Also, "Be more careful than you think you need to be"

Matt Nottingham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 5

Hi Ronnie. I am so sorry to have just read about your unfortunate fall. As someone who has climbed with Ronnie I can attest that he is a skilled and cautious climber. His assistance with his own rescue, considering the extent of his injuries, also indicates an amazing level of toughness and grit. Best wishes my friend for a speedy recovery. -- Matt Nottingham

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25
Kevin Heckeler wrote: I was belaying someone many years back who slipped in likely the exact same spot/move and fell, landing on his back on the ledge but *just* as rope stretch slowed them enough to only impact mildly. They experienced discomfort from some bruising but we were able to work our way off. I'm sad you got as injured as you did. Our post-fall analysis of the gear situation, with the help of an experience friend/guide, surprised all of us. We *thought* we had sewn the route up and done everything right, but cumulative draws, elongation, and rope stretch all checked out mathematically. Roofs are hard to protect without creating drag (using shorter draws when ledges are not far below). We figured a single long runner added 3-4 feet of fall alone. If I recall correctly he had used two on the top most gear. As I said, we were very surprised he was anywhere near that ledge after the fall let alone making any impact with it. So what saddens me is that many of us likely protect sections of climbing incorrectly all the time, but until we have to 'test' it don't realize it's wrong/inadequate. And of course finding out the hard way in trad is never fun. :( Speedy recovery! Shockley's is by no means "5.6" It's says that in a guide or two, but it isn't. There's plenty capable climbers that struggle through that move. Modern Times (supposedly 5.8+) kicked my ass last Fall, despite being able to get up technical 5.10 most of the time. The Gunks are full of sandbags, it's one of the reasons I found mountain project in the first place - to weed out/skip those routes until I was ready to climb them (at their actual grade).
This is spot on.

I was belaying a friend last weekend. He was about 30ft off the ground, pulling through a crux with a bolt at his chest. His waist was about two feet above the bolt when he fell.

I knew he would likely fall, he told me as much. I had very little slack in the system and immediately locked him off and stepped backwards as he fell (ie a hard catch) due to a ledge being about 6ft below the bolt. He still landed hard on the ledge before the rope went tight.

He fall significantly father than either of us thought, despite essentially knowing exactly when he was going to fall.

He was ok, but it was hard hit on the ledge. We talked about it, I don't know what either of us could have done differently. The length of the fall was due to rope stretch and the quick draw perhaps rotating downwards a bit.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

With the situation you described, rope stretch would put him on the ledge. But he wouldn't be hitting hard (as suggested by the fact that he got away uninjured); most of his fall energy would already have been absorbed.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
rgold wrote:In my opinion, most belayers leave too much, especially if their experience comes from overhanging sport and gym climbs. But belaying with only a small amount of slack in the system requires a lot of vigilance so that you don't continually short-rope the leader, and many belayers are not up to the task.
I agree. This is something I usually discuss with someone I'm belaying for the first time, I let them decide since they have to feel comfortable on the sharp end. Now, in part because of the experience I posted, I tend to be cautious and by default allow very little slack out when lead belaying.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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