Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Pennyroyal Arches
|
Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Multiplication T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Resisting Arrest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Whippersnapper T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
White Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins 9/2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,811 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route includes gear-protected crack climbing, bolt protected face climbing and a fun roof. The first two pitches are a great place for leaders getting into trad climbing to practice placing gear.
Pitch 1 - head up and slightly left on a short headwall and gain a crack which runs up the face. Climb this crack for about 30 feet then traverse right into another crack which runs longer up the face. Follow this crack for about 100' to the belay which takes a #2 and #3 Camalot. This pitch is about 215' so if you have a 60m rope you will need to simulclimb with the follower on easy terrain. 5.6.
Pitch 2 - work up and left into a left facing dihedral which turns into a roof. Surmount the roof on nice holds and proceed left to a ledge and belay(#1 Camalot and other gear). 5.5.
Pitch 3 - climb up and left following a small crack for 20 feet to the base of a dark water streak. Climb the water streak past seven bolts with the crux coming at the top. Two bolt anchor. Some gear placements can be found to supplement the bolts, if desired. 5.7.
Pitch 1 - head up and slightly left on a short headwall and gain a crack which runs up the face. Climb this crack for about 30 feet then traverse right into another crack which runs longer up the face. Follow this crack for about 100' to the belay which takes a #2 and #3 Camalot. This pitch is about 215' so if you have a 60m rope you will need to simulclimb with the follower on easy terrain. 5.6.
Pitch 2 - work up and left into a left facing dihedral which turns into a roof. Surmount the roof on nice holds and proceed left to a ledge and belay(#1 Camalot and other gear). 5.5.
Pitch 3 - climb up and left following a small crack for 20 feet to the base of a dark water streak. Climb the water streak past seven bolts with the crux coming at the top. Two bolt anchor. Some gear placements can be found to supplement the bolts, if desired. 5.7.
Location
This route begins at the low point of the rock buttress about 200' left of the huge dihedral which splits the Pennyroyal Arches formation.
To descend either traverse straight right about 100' to the tree atop the third pitch of Penny Dreadful(stay roped together; there is a 5th class move halfway) and do two double rope rappels(two 60m ropes mandatory). Alternately, head straight left on exposed ledges(be careful here) to the left end of the formation and around back to the start.
To descend either traverse straight right about 100' to the tree atop the third pitch of Penny Dreadful(stay roped together; there is a 5th class move halfway) and do two double rope rappels(two 60m ropes mandatory). Alternately, head straight left on exposed ledges(be careful here) to the left end of the formation and around back to the start.
3 Comments