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Routes in Arrowhead
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Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Artemis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Country Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diamond Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gimme Shelter T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ithaca T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Ramp T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 R |
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V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | Doug Byerly and Kath Pyke |
| Page Views: | 3,922 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | paco on May 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Rain Dance certainly has some super fun cracks on quality rock, but I don't think this route deserves three stars either. If coming up to do it, make sure you do another route the same day (see Refugium).
The 1st 5.9 pitch on this route consists of beautiful finger cracks up a perfect slab. In my opinion, the best pitch of either Rain Dance or Refugium. From there continue via variations (the .9+ is fun but thin) to the top. Note: watch out for loose chicken heads on top of last pitch!
Per Ken Duncan: the description below assumes use of a 70m rope, most of it should go the same with a 60m. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!
P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.
P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, right-facing dihedral, then head straight up to another large, grassy ledge, 5.7.
P3. Climb the groove/flake feature above to a third large grassy ledge 5.6. Belay here or on the rock ledge down and right below the P4 crack.
P4. The money pitch. Climb the left-angling crack up the sweeping slab 5.8 at the start, then it gets easier. Continue along the crack as it arches left into the left-facing dihedral 5.9 then up to an optional belay ledge on the right. Hand traverse a flake left then climb the thin crack up to another big, grassy ledge 5.9+/10a.
P5. From the left end of the ledge, climb a short dihedral, then angle left up a grassy slope. Head back right and climb a short 5.8 chimney to a ledge. Now you have three options, a right-angling groove that heads into the dihedral 5.8, the dihedral 5.9, or the right wall 5.10a. Choose one and take it to the top.
The 1st 5.9 pitch on this route consists of beautiful finger cracks up a perfect slab. In my opinion, the best pitch of either Rain Dance or Refugium. From there continue via variations (the .9+ is fun but thin) to the top. Note: watch out for loose chicken heads on top of last pitch!
Per Ken Duncan: the description below assumes use of a 70m rope, most of it should go the same with a 60m. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!
P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.
P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, right-facing dihedral, then head straight up to another large, grassy ledge, 5.7.
P3. Climb the groove/flake feature above to a third large grassy ledge 5.6. Belay here or on the rock ledge down and right below the P4 crack.
P4. The money pitch. Climb the left-angling crack up the sweeping slab 5.8 at the start, then it gets easier. Continue along the crack as it arches left into the left-facing dihedral 5.9 then up to an optional belay ledge on the right. Hand traverse a flake left then climb the thin crack up to another big, grassy ledge 5.9+/10a.
P5. From the left end of the ledge, climb a short dihedral, then angle left up a grassy slope. Head back right and climb a short 5.8 chimney to a ledge. Now you have three options, a right-angling groove that heads into the dihedral 5.8, the dihedral 5.9, or the right wall 5.10a. Choose one and take it to the top.
Protection
Standard, high peak rack with some extra thin gear.
Per Ken Duncan: bring extra small to medium cams.
Per Ken Duncan: bring extra small to medium cams.
Photos
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