Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Lynn Willis, Matt Paden, May 2016 |
Page Views: | 1,876 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Astro Guy on Jul 18, 2016 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Luciferin is a great warm-up with excellent protection. Start on sloping rails and climb 10 ft. into the shallow corner below the 2-3 ft. cap roof. Pull onto the face using the huge horizontals, trend up and Right (5.9), then around blunt arete. Climb down-sloping features on slabby terrain to gain the vertical seam, then head up and Left towards obvious horn. Stay to the right side of horn and climb ever-easing terrain to the Fixe ring anchors. 60M rope lowers you to the ground.
5.10 variation: Start about 4 feet left of Luciferin near an obvious thin, vertical seam. Climb up to the right-most jugs used on Jug Route and then keep going straight up until at the horizontal below the triangular-shaped, slightly overhanging face. Get gear (your last until the crux is over), then power through crimps and shallow pockets on the face and left corner until you get the goods up top. Step up to easy terrain and then traverse right into Luciferin.
The route name comes from the first ascent party having a bioluminescent experience on the way back to the trailhead, walking into a firefly hatching and a glowworm by the trail. Luciferin is the light-emitting compound found in organisms that generate bioluminescence.
5.10 variation: Start about 4 feet left of Luciferin near an obvious thin, vertical seam. Climb up to the right-most jugs used on Jug Route and then keep going straight up until at the horizontal below the triangular-shaped, slightly overhanging face. Get gear (your last until the crux is over), then power through crimps and shallow pockets on the face and left corner until you get the goods up top. Step up to easy terrain and then traverse right into Luciferin.
The route name comes from the first ascent party having a bioluminescent experience on the way back to the trailhead, walking into a firefly hatching and a glowworm by the trail. Luciferin is the light-emitting compound found in organisms that generate bioluminescence.
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