Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Ken Ewing and Los Alamos Mountaineers - mid 1950s
Page Views: 873 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 19, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Intelligent climbers will avoid this one yet some folks might give it a try without fully thinking through the potential consequences. If you have tiny hands, this will feel a bit more difficult.

I'm adding this just for posterity's sake. Mark and I climbed this wide crack/dihedral/chimney thing in 2008 on gear, simul-rapping off the formation with one of us on each side of the rock. It was a quick, fun experience but with the bolted route Stemtastic now just left of the crack, I wouldn't expect any repeats of this gear climb.

I later learned from a long-time Los Alamos climber that Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and nearby Battleship Rock, in the 1950s so I'm sure this crack had been climbed prior to Mark and I climbing it in 2008.

Climb featured rock up the dihedral using the grungy crack in the back for gear. The angle eases off up high.

Location Suggest change

The dihedral/overlap/chimney thing on the right end of the formation between Stemtastic and Chim Chim Arete

Protection Suggest change

Gear to #3 camalot. Optionally, a small broom and mask.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading