Suggestions for Hard Slab Boulders and Routes in the Northeast

I've always been a really big fan of slab climbing and I've managed to have good success in my climbing 'career' in this style of climbing, having climbed multiple slabs in the 5.13 and v10 range. So, I'd thought I'd reach out to Northeast climbing community and look for some suggestions for hard slab climbs in the Northeast. I'm mainly looking for suggestions in 5.13 and above range (though hard 12's are cool too) and for boulders that are v7 or above, though if there's a stellar v6 I've missed, please let me know.

Here's a list of hard slabs in the Northeast that I've done in order to limit repeat suggestions and a list of climbs that are on my radar.

Climbs I've Done

Pawtuckaway
Voodoo Child (v9/10)
Midnight In A Perfect World (v9/10)

Rumney
Zig Zag Variation (v9) very steep slab/vertical

Great Barrington
Kim Novak (v9) very steep slab/vertical

Stonehouse Pond
Bald Man In A Boat 5.12d
Down By Law 5.13a

Climbs That Are On My List

Pawtuckaway
Nightmare Project (5.13d??)
Check Your Head (v9) sort of a slab, but not really

Rumney
Static Cling (5.12a/b)
Tales From The Crimp (5.12b/c)
Sidewalk Surfing (5.12b)

Great Barrington
Photo Finish (v10) steep slab/vertical

Gilbert Hills
Gritish Invasion (v7)

Quincy Quarries
Temple of Doom (5.12+)

Cannon Cliff
Stretched On Your Grave (5.13a)

So, am I missing anything? I'm also interested in any hard slab projects out there that you might know of. I saw a picture of one in Great Barrington that was quite intriguing. I'm hoping the collective knowledge of MP can unearth some lines that I've overlooked or forgotten. I'm sure John Strand has some suggestions...

Black Flies consume Jim Dunn at green's hasn't had a second in 20+ years. Unwanted Guests is a solid 12B with very thin holds. There's and apparently incomplete project on Cannon ( we never finished it 12C) partially bolted. next to DD

Stretched a TR on Cannon is 5.13..bolt it up, fine with me...The direct finish to Future Shock at Whitehorse has not been lead (i doubt) 13A i guess

And of course mt nemesis..P3 Grand Finale 13A on TR..never lead it but it goes fine

While your there do Armageddon 12C ..almost x,,but not quite....awesome

My direct finish to Clean Sweep may have not had a second (headpoint 12C) very dangerous

Not really a mega problem, but Silent Rage at Lincoln Woods is a hard slab problem that I've never heard of anyone repeating:

mountainproject.com/v/silen…

Poke-O Moonshine in the Adirondacks has a nice, healthy list of bolted face climbs that are slightly off-vertical. Recommended Routes:
Salad Days (13a) *havent been on it, but here that it's brutal)
Verdon (11c)
Calvary Hill (12a)
The Howling (12a)
The Rapture (11+++)
Raptors Scream (12c)
Air Male (11c)

There are more, but this oughta get you started!

Silent Rage is a toughy

Most of the POKO routes are 12-ish..I haven't tried the routes rated 13

Thanks for the suggestions. Silent Rage is a good suggestion. John, the second pitch of Future Shock has no bolts on it anymore, correct?

When your done with those fly out west. Hall of Mirrors in Yosemite 16 pitches up to 12c.. Probably worth the trip!! I have started to take a liking to slab!!! Fun stuff....

Check out Wheeler mountain in VT. There is an unfinished project on the upper wall called Travesty. Though all the moves have been done it has never had them all linked together for the send. It is a premier line and defiantly 5.13.

The thing about Silent Rage is really how many pads you stack to start. If I remember correctly, Lee did the "FA" with five or six pads stacked and Dave G. might have gotten that down to 2 or 3. It would be really cool and hard if someone did that from a single pad start.

I'm also sure you can find some really hard slab problems at Gilbert Hills if you are willing to hike around. I have always gone there looking for overhanging problems but there is plenty of lower angle blank rock there. As a matter of fact, I'm sure there is hard slab project or two to the left of the two problems I did on the Mothership Boulder at Ghills:

mountainproject.com/v/mothe…

I also seem to remember some hard looking slab-ish problems in Milford (Little Cottonwood boulder area, the boulders out past College Rock, and maybe something on the Renaissance Man boulder?), though again I wasn't really looking for those types of walls.

Silent rage is pretty hard it took me like an hour or two just to figure out how to get off the "ground" and that was starting off of two stacked pads closed ha ha. It only gets harder the fewer pads stacked and I couldn't really figure out where it started was confused by the "how many pads stacked" is the official start. It would be sick to see someone get that rig ticked off.

Christian Prellwitz wrote:Thanks for the suggestions. Silent Rage is a good suggestion. John, the second pitch of Future Shock has no bolts on it anymore, correct?

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions so far! It's great to hear about things that weren't on my radar.

Walmongr- I live in the West most of the year so I've definitely sampled hard slabs out here. It's just that I'm likely heading back to the Northeast for the Fall so I wanted to get a list of climbs I might be interested in for that period. But yes, I agree, the West certainly has plenty of great slabs.

John- I'm definitely going to make it down to Quincy to try out your harder lines there. And I promise I'll go take a look at Cannon as well. The logistical piece is managing to bring all of the gear I need back to the Northeast. Especially if I'm flying.

Joe- Thanks for the Massachusetts suggestions. I'll have to poke around there at some point. I figured if anyone would be aware of hard slab boulders, it would be you.

There are a number of hard slabs and a bit under (or over) vertical crimpy face routes at Farley in western Mass--the slabs are mostly 12s, but some of the steeper routes 'edge' into 13.

Direct Stream on the Main Slab is a solid 12. There is also a solid 12 slab in the K-2 area. On the Upper Tier (above the Bat Cave) is a slab just left of Connecticut Cracks--currently well-covered in lichen, under which are a couple of very ancient bolts. I am uncertain if this has ever been free-climbed, but is at least somewhere in the 12 category. Nearby are climbs such as Digitizer and Afterburner--crimpy but definitely steeper than 'slab'.
Given this is Farley, you will need a knowledgeable local to point you in the right direction. I'll be happy to do so if I'm around when you visit.

Nearby there are a good number of slab or 'a bit more than slab' climbs at Rose Ledge and Mormon Hollow, the fairly recently bolted Don't Sweat the Small Stuff at the latter is considered 12b or c--though the crux section is a bit too steep to be considered a slab.

john strand wrote: Joe --I thought Rage got done w/o pads once ????

Christian--I might be able to arrange some gear for you in NE..maybe some pads, a drill..etc...lemme know

Peppy's Face on Cannon. 12a+ pure slab with a handful (2?) ascents since the 80s. mountainproject.com/v/peppy…

12A

X2 for Peppy's Face!

The middle of the main slab at Redrock (in Gloucester) is really blank, between No Steps(5.12) and Black Streak(5.11) if you can find a way up it it would definitely be 13 or harder.

There is one hard slab back in the woods at College Rock that is ~20' tall and is a 12+ or 13(maybe v6) I thought it was harder than The Hole at Lincoln Woods.

Isn't that No steps Direct ? I know I never did it Hell, Black is prolly 12B ?

I remember that slab at College...I used to live up the street....I'd say quite a bit harder than the Hole at LW ..a grade or 2 ??

Nice. Sounds intriguing. Can you give me a better idea how I would locate that slab at College Rock?