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Sport Climbing Recommendations near Boise, Twin Falls or Pocatello

Original Post
Pam Dollar · · Monument, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

We are going to be traveling through Idaho (via hwy 84) in August and want to climb some sport. So I am looking for recommendations! Where/what's good to climb in Idaho in August? Thanks and if you want to climb in Durango and need a tour guide, let me know.

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

It's pretty grim in southern Idaho in August becuase of the heat. The city of rocks might be your best bet for temps. There are a lot of fun sport routes there or at castle rocks next door.

If you don't mind getting after it early, massacre rocks is awesome sport climbing and really close to the I84. Stick to the shade and get out of bed early. It would probably be good in the evening too.

Past User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,069

Definitely the hot season. City of Rocks or Castle Rocks can work for early mornings/ evenings with a long afternoon shade siesta... Its about 1.5 hours south and east of Twin Falls. Early morning shade could also be found at scattered crags at Dierkies Lake Idaho, but the main crag is mostly a south facing solar oven. In Boise, decent afternoon shade and climbing can be found at the Black Cliffs- especially the dark side crag- south (north facing) of the dam at the mouth of the canyon. If you were to prioritize, focus on the City of Rocks/ Castle for the best quality and experience.

Trevor · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 830

The Fins are quality limestone sport climbing at high elevation. They're a good ways off I84 though.

Past User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,069

4 wheel drive best for fins (otherwise you cant make it to the top access of the steep road). Also they bake in the heat until they go into the shade in the afternoon. With that said, they are an option, although plan on about 2.5 hrs from
Twin Falls or 1.5 hours from Idaho Falls.

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240
mountainproject.com/v/heise…

Haven't climbed here myself due to rain when I was in the area but it looked pretty fun. Not too far from Idaho Falls.
Pam Dollar · · Monument, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks for the info! Don't mind early. Same is true in Durango.

Dave Bingham · · Hailey, ID · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 72

Yes - mornings at City / Castle as well as the PM at the Fins. Near the Fins is another good sport crag - Cedar Creek, in a shady, high elevation spot by a rushing creek. See guidebooks "Idaho Underground" or "Sweet Spots" for full info.

One more - The Lava Tubes are less than an hour north of Twin Falls toward Sun Valley. Shade PM, super steep jugs w fixed draws on 5.11 - 5.13's.

pss - my wife and I are going to Durango area 2nd week of Aug!

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 2,233

Both 'City' and 'Castle' are fine in my opinion for climbing all through the summer. Shade on the west sides in the morning till noon.

Some examples would be west side of Breadloaves, west side of Parking Lot Rock, west side of Morning Glory, west side of Bath Rock, west side in Hostess Gully (Castle) and dozens of other places.

Take a nap, eat lunch, swim at Durfees Hot Springs, swim at the new fishing pond at Castle Rocks or just take a short drive into the high country.

Go back out around 4:00 pm till dark. East side of Parking Lot Rock, east side of Breadloaves - including Bloody Fingers area, east and north side of Elephant Rock, the three pitch classic called Morning Glory on Morning Glory Spire, the north spur of Castle Rock and dozens of other places.

All of these areas/climbs are minutes from the car. Routes from easy to hard. Sport and Trad, one pitch shorties or multi pitch classics.

Stay in the air-conditioned Almo Creek Outpost Hotel, eat in one of several restaurants. Seriously, what could be better!

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

Get an early start at Flaming Rock trailhead at City of Rocks. Tribal Boundaries (10b), New York is not the City (10a) and, Too Much Fun (5.8 but too much fun!). These are 3 of the best sport routes in the City. And around the corner from Too Much is Transformer Corridor with Mystery Bolter (5.9 w/hard start) plus a number of other bolted 10's and 11'. All these routes will be in shade until late morning.

Pam Dollar · · Monument, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks again. The Lava Tubes sound fun! We'll be in Idaho for a few days, so maybe we could play at City of Rocks and the Lava Tubes. Dave: are you guys coming to Durango to climb?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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