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Rope Selection Tahquitz/Suicide

Original Post
JF M · · NoCo · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,823

Any reason to bring double/twins vs single ropes to climb Tahquitz & Suicide? Is a tagline even necessary? My main concern is if there are (generally) rap stations <35m apart (and off the deck) in case we need to bail before topping out.

Thanks JFM

DaEyeDoc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

Bring a 70m and you will be fine. Bailing from the middle of most routes is not a great option because most anchors will be on gear. Several of the first pitches have fixed anchors and then nothing further on the route. Make sure to do your research on the individual route.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Many/some/all of the slab climbs on Suicide have fixed anchors and a 60 will get you down. A 70 is going to give you more options.

On the Tahquitz multipitch climbs, based on my experience, you will be using primarily gear anchors. Don't bail, because you will be leaving gear, like DaEyeDoc said.

Hopefully, you have the guidebook, which is quite helpful and accurate:

amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Tahq…*Version*=1&*entries*=0

It's a great climbing area. Have fun.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

Depending on the route, there are options to bail off natural protection, and there are some rap stations, but I would want to scout them out before I relied on them based on guidebook info. You will also find fixed gear at various spots, but don't know how you feel about bailing off a piton of indeterminate age.

I don't have half ropes, so it is not an option for me, and a tag line is more trouble than it is worth. I do the routes with a 70 now, so that is handy for linking pitches, but the drag can be a pain.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

70m IS the new 60m!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Be smart!

the place has been climbed at sense the 1930's.....

If you need to bail, with say a injured person, use your head.

One time Jeff and I got wigged out because of all the flying debris raining down from a party of noobs dragging a rope through the scree at the top. I lowered him all the way to the deck with a 60, then took off and rapped to some bolts on one of the newer bolted face climbs, hooked into one bolt, left a bail biner and was on the deck safe and sound.

If you want to do the rap route just to the right of the Open Book, its set up for double 60....

if you want to rap down Angles Fright.... one 50 will most likely do, cause there are lots of trees.

I know of a fatality that happened cause the single cord didn't reach the deck on the Vampire, R.I.P Lucas.

So use your head, the place is not a modern - all set up sport crag- rather
a great place to learn how to go climbing and deal with what ever you run up against.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

At Tahquitz it's gear anchors and a walk-off. There's some rap options but the walk-off is generally faster and easier. 60/70m doesn't matter much. Try not to bail, not worth bringing a tag.

At Suicide 60 is usually enough but sometimes involves some downclimbing/scrambling on easy ground when you rap.

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230
FrankPS wrote:Hopefully, you have the guidebook, which is quite helpful and accurate
"quite helpful" and "accurate" are not words that i'd use to describe any Tahquitz guidebook, including the latest Vogel/Gaines guide, which omits many of the less popular routes that were in older guides.

I have copies of all of them, back to the original Wilts guide that you pick up for a buck at chessler books. Each is useful in some capacity, but as climbing areas go, I think Tahquitz is probably the most poorly recorded climbing area (of its magnitude) I've been to. Lots of mistakes and vagueness in all the different guides.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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