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Conditions on Whitney Mountaineers Route

Original Post
Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 26

Anyone been up/down the Mountaineers Route on Whitney recently. Will be climbing E. Buttress shortly & wondering if descent requires crampons/axe. Thx

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

Came off Keeler via the mountaineers last week (July 6). It's almost 100% clear of ice and snow, we didn't have nor need axe/crampons.

Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 26

Thanks Mike appreciate the info for our trip. Cheers!

Will Carney · · Tallulah Falls, GA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 135

You guys have any insight into permitting? Seems they're booked to infinity for the Whitney Zone. Are the walk-in odds favorable for the overnight permits?

Jason Wong · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10

Here is a link to how many permits went unused on a given day during the 2015 season. Obviously weekdays and late season are your best bet.

"If someone with a reserved permit becomes a no-show (they don't show up and don't phone in before the deadline, which is noon the day before for day hikes, and 10 AM on the entry date for overnight permits), then their permit becomes available to people walking into the Visitor Center and asking. The no-shows become available at 2 PM, the day before for day hikes, and 11 AM current day for overnighters)."

whitneyzone.com/wz/ubbthrea…

Will Carney · · Tallulah Falls, GA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 135
JWong wrote:Here is a link to how many permits went unused on a given day during the 2015 season. Obviously weekdays and late season are your best bet. "If someone with a reserved permit becomes a no-show (they don't show up and don't phone in before the deadline, which is noon the day before for day hikes, and 10 AM on the entry date for overnight permits), then their permit becomes available to people walking into the Visitor Center and asking. The no-shows become available at 2 PM, the day before for day hikes, and 11 AM current day for overnighters)." whitneyzone.com/wz/ubbthrea…
Awesome information. Much gratitude.
Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 26

Was just up at Iceberg lake climbing Whitney & Russell routes Fri-Mon. Not many other groups up there. Suggest you call ranger station for walk-in permit availability. Road to Whitney Portal has construction delays so plan accordingly.

Will Carney · · Tallulah Falls, GA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 135
RonC wrote:Was just up at Iceberg lake climbing Whitney & Russell routes Fri-Mon. Not many other groups up there. Suggest you call ranger station for walk-in permit availability. Road to Whitney Portal has construction delays so plan accordingly.
Thanks Ron. We're gonna shoot for another climb in another part of the Country. Too risky to travel out to Cali with potential for a shut-out. Didn't realize the scarcity of permits till looking into the trip in earnest. Have to be more diligent planning.
splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

I've gotten lucky with walk-ins to upper boyscout. it is a walk-in lottery, not first come the day before entry, which adds a bit more anxiety. :)

if you have a bit of flexibility and you don't get your permit the first time you can always go climbing in the portal for the day or day hike out of horseshoe meadows and try again the next day.

Macks Whineturd · · Squaw · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Whats really going on with the road work on the portal road? No private vehicle parking allowed at the trailhead?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
MacksWhineturd wrote:Whats really going on with the road work on the portal road? No private vehicle parking allowed at the trailhead?
http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/news-events/?cid=FSEPRD508779
Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 26

Trail head parking still available provided you have permit. They are re-paving WP road link explains times and delays.

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

You do not need crampons to descent the mountaineer's route.

You can't park at the trailhead without a permit, handed out with the permit to hike in.

Even with the permit, parking for more than 3 nights is not allowed, or the car will be towed.

They will tell you all that and more accurate details as you get the permit, in the ranger station.

The walk in permits for the Mountaineer's Route/Russell and routes on the Keeler/East Face of Whitney or anything in the NF of LP are handed out at 11 am, the day prior to your walk in day. If you are lucky and no one was interested to pick them up the day prior, walk in and ask if there are a few left. I was lucky to get permits three times this year, all midweek.

Those staying over 3 nights, you can hitch hike from town or there is a 65$ shuttle service (so if it is 4 of you, you can divide the fee and it comes out to be reasonable). Hitch hiking is not too bad and for teams of two staying longer than 3 nights, it may be the better option..

Have fun! And if anyone finds a #6 camalot on top of Whitney or somewhere along the Mountaineer's route, please email me at xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com It has likely unclipped from my friend's harness about a week ago...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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