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Using the silent partner as jugging backup

Original Post
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Hi,

Quick question. Anyone tried using the SP as a jugging backup?

Say you're jugging on two ascenders, w/ nylon daisies running from ascender to harness and tying backup knots in every 30 ft. If you put an SP on your harness, the weight of the rope below might make it slide easily through...as just one extra precaution.

I've seen people jug with a grigri backup up and it's a PITA.

Note: not looking to eliminate backup knots.

J

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 552

There is too much friction with a silent partner to self feed. Use something like a microtraxion instead.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

No advantage to a Grigri. A SP still needs rope weight to feed well. Use knots, especially if you need to bring the rope up with you. A Grigri works fine when there is enough rope weight to feed, and I prefer a Grigri for juggling traverses.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Csproul, you juggle on traverses? Dang man!

Once you have quite a bit of rope hanging down below the Silent Partner it will self feed. It's way over kill though. A Gri-gri will do the same thing, but really, ultimately, knots are the way to go.

The only time I use a Gri-gri in addition to knots is when I'm cleaning something severely overhanging or diagonal, and in those cases, the Gri-gri is actually part of the cleaning setup and not really a back up.

I never worry about ascenders popping off the rope unexpectedly. IMHO, it never happens, it is always human error. I stay focused and do not make that error. I always have a back up knot anyway.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Roger that Mark et al. 2 ascenders plus backup knots and get moving.

Incidentally and relative to the overhanging comment, I posted up a question about using the petzl evolv adjust but no one replied. You guys ever use that in lieu of daisies?

J

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Is that the new thing with the cord? I just saw one yesterday. I didn't catch the price but I'd like to play with one.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
Mark Hudon wrote:Is that the new thing with the cord? I just saw one yesterday. I didn't catch the price but I'd like to play with one.
It's essentially one length of cord, with a loop at the midpoint that you girth hitch. And on each end is an adjustable lock that you slip the biner through. So it's like two adjustable daisies in one. The single version is rated but the double is just like a metolius daisy...body weight only.

70 bucks.

Just ordered one. Will take pics and upload to that thread once I get it.

J
Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I've been using the evolve adjust for the last year. It is great - it makes all other adjustable daisies obsolete in my opinion. They aren't cheap, but no slipping buckles and are rated for a 10 year life span so they won't cost much more than regular adjustable daisies over the life of the thing.

It isn't even remotely comparable to the metolius - that stupid ring seems likely to cut the webbing under any kind of significant force. The body weight rating on the evolve adjust seems ultra conservative to me - it is really bomber.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Jeff Harmon wrote: The single version is rated but the double is just like a metolius daisy...body weight only.
That's sort of odd.
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

I figure it's stronger than the daisy but all it says on petzls website is that it's not "rated" like the single tether.

Jordan Gans · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2012 · Points: 26

I actually contacted Petzl as I was curious why they wouldn't give a specific rating...they still wouldn't tell me but said as long as the rope was in the system (IE jugging or leading), and/or you weren't above the anchor in a possible factor 1 situation, there is no concern with breakage.

I'm guessing the thinner 7.7mm Paso they use for the adjust doesn't pass the higher standard for personal tethers required by the CE (I believe 15 KN).

I've been using them for the past year and love their versatility and ease of use...but I also typically only use an Allfrifi while leading without any daisies in the system.

Jordan

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

The Petzl website says "less than 15Kn". A kn is worth 240 pounds so 3,600 pounds.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
Mark Hudon wrote:The Petzl website says "less than 15Kn". A kn is worth 240 pounds so 3,600 pounds.
My discomfort here is saying "less than 15kn" so is that "10kn less than 15kn" or "14.2 kn"

Why not just give a working range so we know?

We need a test.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

... but said as long as the rope was in the system (IE jugging or leading), and/or you weren't above the anchor in a possible factor 1 situation, there is no concern with breakage.
...but I also typically only use an Allfrifi while leading without any daisies in the system. Jordan

Hell, the tag on the Metolius daisies says they are worth less than 300 pounds and it doesn't bother me a bit to be clipped to an anchor or my jugs with them. Any 7.7 mil cord has to be far, far stronger.

Jordan, my technique also. I think I'm going to get a set.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
Mark Hudon wrote:... but said as long as the rope was in the system (IE jugging or leading), and/or you weren't above the anchor in a possible factor 1 situation, there is no concern with breakage. ...but I also typically only use an Allfrifi while leading without any daisies in the system. Jordan Hell, the tag on the Metolius daisies says they are worth less than 300 pounds and it doesn't bother me a bit to be clipped to an anchor or my jugs with them. Any 7.7 mil cord has to be far, far stronger. Jordan, my technique also. I think I'm going to get a set.
Makes sense to me Mark. Enjoy!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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